Bill Blass by Lars Nilsson: Swan Song
By Mari Davis
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
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NEW YORK, Feb 13, 2003/ FW/ --- Lars Nilsson's collection for Bill Blass last Tuesday turned
out to be his swan song. On Wednesday, Nilsson announced to the press his dismissal together
with 5 other members of his design team.
Fall 2003 was Lars Nilsson's fifth season with Bill Blass. Since he took over the helm of
the creative team, his collections have always gotten good reviews from the fashion press.
Oh, there is always one Fifth Avenue grouse who would say that Nilsson was not following
Bill Blass' legacy and style.
But, fashion is not an exact science. And there is only one Bill Blass. Lars Nilsson can
take inspiration from Bill Blass, and then interject his own interpretation. It is called
moving forward.
To say that Lars Nilsson dismissal is dramatic will be an understatement. The collection
he showed last Tuesday was his best one yet.
Inspired by New York's architecture, Nilsson sent fitted jackets worn with racy jeans-cut pants,
a graphic black hooded coat, the rich burgundy and dark green palette and evening wear that
included a simple blouses with decorative skirts.
But the applause he received and the hoards of well-heeled ladies who flocked backstage
after the show to offer congratulations were not enough to keep his job.
Twenty-four hours later, Lars Nilsson was out in the cold.
Is it creative differences that precipitated his dismissal? Or is it the tough economic
times, when retail sales is an all time low in 30 years?
The New York Times quoted Michael Groveman, CEO of Bill Blass saying that, "while the collections
had been well received by the fashion press, they reflected a radical departure
from the spirit of the house." As a result, he said, "sales did not live up to expectations."
In the end, the bottom line ruled.
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