Bill Blass: Michael Vollbracht Finds His Voice
By Mari Davis
Photos by Javier Mateo

NEW YORK, Feb 12, 2004/ FW/ --- If last season, Michael Vollbracht paid homage to Bill Blass, this time, you can hear his voice loud and clear. With 77 exits in the collection, the 1980 Designer of the Year Awardee of the Coty American Fashion Critics Award showed what he could do for the label.

Starting the show with daywear composed of little black dresses, suits and jackets with a generous sprinkling of pantsuit sets, Michael Vollbracht responded to the needs of today’s busy women.

With smart and tailored silhouettes, the Bill Blass woman can be the corporate executive, the mother who drives a carpool for her kids, and the junior leaguer ready for action in her community work.

For a touch of luxury, the designer used sable and ostrich feather as trim.

He even had enough time to create some beautiful gowns that will be perfect for those formal Christmas parties come wintertime.

The most dramatic look was the oversized kimono with tiger prints at the front and back, paired with a cowl neck shell and gray flannel pant.

Karolina Kurkova wore the sexiest look, an amber chiffon criss-cross halter gown with crystal embroidery. And the most luxe look was the finale, a fawn satin strapless ball gown with embroidered bodice and golden sable hem.

It was a good collection overall and Michael Vollbracht could have pulled it off with aplomb except for the “traffic jam” on the runway.

Pat Cleveland “dancing” on the runway was out of sync with the clipped pace of the show, making other models stop in the middle of the runway in a pose so that Ms. Cleveland can exit gracefully.

Sarah Kapp seemed unsure, and at times, looked as if she was lost. It was painful to watch her hold on to Erin O’Connor so that she can find her way backstage. The playful nod to men’s tailoring presented by three models in just one walk was lost to the audience.

The show featured highly paid catwalkers, guaranteeing that the show will go on smoothly. Unfortunately, Pat Cleveland, Sarah Kapp and Karen Bjornson stole the show from Erin, Karolina and Liya.

And though last season, seeing older models on the runway was a treat to the audience, this time it became predictable and sadly, very stale.

Even with that taken into consideration, one had to accept that Michael Vollbracht sent strong looks on the runway that will definitely find their way on store shelves come fall.

Bill Blass

Bill Blass

Bill Blass

Bill Blass

Bill Blass