DALLAS, Dec 10, 2003/ FW/ --- One of the biggest challenges of a designer who is taking over a fashion house is that he has to uphold the “spirit” of the house, while interjecting his own style.

With Bill Blass’ rich history and iconic heritage, the demands put on the designer is heavier, even harder. He has to please existing clients and at the same time, attract new ones.

And that was what Michael Vollbracht was faced with last September when he presented his debut collection. He has to find the proper balance.

The two years (1999 – 2002) he spent working with Bill Blass himself on the retrospective exhibition on Blass’ career Indiana University's art museum came in handy.

Michael Vollbracht knew Bill Blass and understands the “spirit” of the house. He knew every line, every design, and every cut.

The gowns were breathtaking, specially the multi-colored chiffon gown worn by Karolina Kurkova.

He even made a play with the Bill Blass logo, as exemplified by the white shirt embossed with the distinctive double B logo, worn over wide cut trousers and paired with a jacket.

All the pieces were beautiful when taken alone. But somehow, there was no glue that held them together.

The collection was rooted too much in the past and lacking the modernity which today’s fashionista set are looking for.

Michael Vollbracht is a great designer in his own right. He won the Designer of the Year Coty American Fashion Critics Award in 1980 and was the at the helm of his eponymous label until 1985 when he chose to close his business and concentrate on his art and fashion illustration.

It is a shame that his beautiful Spring 2004 collection went flat. To use a comparison, it was like good champagne that has no bubbly.

It is hard to pinpoint the when, the where and the how of its lost piazza. The cut is impeccable, and the tailoring is masterful. To top it all, the whole collection is very wearable. Almost all the pieces can go from the runway to the showroom.

But when the lights dimmed and the models made their bow, you somehow feel that you missed something.

Bill Blass by Michael Vollbracht

Bill Blass by Michael Vollbracht

Bill Blass by Michael Vollbracht