NEW YORK, Feb 17, 2002/ FWD/ --- Light yet somber, muted but sexy were the appealing contradictions that defined design duo Bruce's 15-piece collection shown Sunday at the Japan Society's auditorium.

Instead of doing the usual long walk up and down the runway, the models walked up to the tip of a small catwalk attached to the stage and held a pose for some extended moments -- which gave the audience more time to figure out the intricate cuts and drapes Nicole Noselli and Daphne Guiterrez presented for Fall 2002.

Compared to previous seasons, Bruce showed a step towards lightness, but features like ropes and mesh added a quiet edge to the collection.

Opening the show was a black wrap dress in stretch wool with a rope tied several times around the body.

As usual, it was in the little details like mesh insets used on the sleeves that lent the designs their unique flavor.

Bruce's clothes have an almost accidental sexiness to them - slits for the wrap skirts this season were so deep that unless a woman took a big stride, you wouldn't notice.

And while a shirt may be sheer, the fabric will be layered around the décolletage.

"Intelligent" is a word often used to describe Bruce's clothes, and it's clear why: While the cuts and details are often subtle and complex, the elements always serve a purpose.

Little ankle flaps gave the pants a stovepipe shape; pockets used on skirts and pants had slightly cinched mouths, making the items puff just so.

Reverse pleats going down the sides of trousers gave the piece its unique volume and movement.

Standouts were vertical flag shirts in black and in teal - the duo's splash of color this time in a mostly black and neutral collection.

The flags created an accordion-like shape that moved and swayed with the model's movements.

Illustrating the pair's talent for draping were cowl blouses and skirts and "lock" dresses where the sheer fabric was entwined, braid-like, in the front.

In another item, the designers used the weight of a front knot to pull down the fabric and create a deep V.

It was an elegant collection, and one that spoke to the promise of this evolving line.