MILAN, Jun 26, 2006/ FW/ --- A catwalk debut is a disquieting experience for any designer. And when you have to compete with the Italian National Football team for attention, the experience becomes terrifying. Still, Central St. Martin grad Manuel Facchini looked calm and composed when he took his bow for the first time under the label Byblos.

A veteran of Fendi Jeans and Vivienne Westwood, the 33 year-old Italian designer is familiar with the pressure that comes with designing for a famous label. But the atmosphere in Milan today was different. The Italian National Football team would go against Australia at the International Football World Cup Tournament just right after the Byblos show. (Italy won the match, for those interested.)

So, to the predominantly Italian press in attendance, soccer was foremost on their minds even before the show started. It was hard to think of plackets and buttons when kick off was less than an hour away.

Yet, when the lights dimmed, the music started and the spotlights were turned on, Manuel Facchini was on the helm. Soccer was momentarily forgotten and the post Studio 54 ‘Psychedelia,’ the theme of his collection, took center stage.

It was retro looks with modern aesthetics. The prints are ‘psychedelic’ circa late 1960s and early 1970s. But the cuts are sharp and lean. The shoulders of suits are straight and the fit though slim is relaxed.

Trousers followed the same concept. Loose at the top for a comfortable fit, then tapered gradually towards the bottom.

Carpenter pants were redone with the addition of ‘riding pants’ elements to it. Details like off center front zips and off center topstitching were also seen.

Prints are graphic, all inspired by the psychedelic era, including the stripes and honeycomb. And touching on the imminent birth of the disco era during the 1970s, iridescent fabrics, both in knits in jacquard were used.

Bomber jackets were collarless, with lots of pockets, demonstrating Fachhini's understanding that an average male today carries at least one mobile phone and an iPod.

It was a play on volume, texture and color, where elements and materials that are divergent in nature were converged to become as one.

It’s an auspicious debut, showing a lot of promise and what Facchini plans to do in the future. Though he stayed focused and tried to keep the collection tight, he also fell victim to the usual traps that befall a freshman – he tried to do too much.

The sweaters could have been dropped together with the scarves. Yet, even with this little faux pas, it was still a well-edited collection that showed only the highlights of what he had done so far since he took over the helm of Byblos.

As Creative Director, Manuel Facchini is responsible for the men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections and will oversee the Byblos Blu diffusion line, eyewear, footwear and perfume.

With that in mind, you can just imagine how hard it was to choose which would go on the catwalk and which would stay in the showroom.

Byblos

Byblos

Byblos

Byblos