PARIS, Feb 1, 2003/ FW/ --- At the risk of sounding like a local chauvinist, one thing you can say about the Ralph Rucci haute couture collection shown this season is that it looked like it had been made in France.

In terms of execution, finesse and subtle detailing, the stylish collection underlined what a classy couturier Rucci has become, being only his second season in Paris. More impressively, everything on the runway, except embroideries by Lesage, was produced in New York.

The collection was staged in the same beautiful mansion, Hotel de Behague, where Givenchy had presented its couture show two days before. Ironically, Rucci's collection looked a great deal closer in spirit to Hubert de Givenchy than anything designed by the French house's current incumbent Julian Macdonald of Wales. Rucci's clothes also contained their share of references to Balenciaga, another great inspiration of Givenchy.

Ralph's handling of alligator for his curvy blazers or jackets with authoritative shoulders was admirably chic. He cut some great straight-legged pants in cotton silks, jacquard pique and, best of all, in white lambskin. Rucci showed a sure hand using Japanese references with bows at the back of the waist and origami cuts, but more than anything else his overall streamlined silhouettes were fresh.

The show lost impact in its second half, though, with overly fanciful evening gowns and wide cut coats that recalled the standard criticism of Rucci -- his cuts are too forgiving and hide too much of the human form.

But Rucci's more elaborate looks - a feathered suit in a metal bodice springs to mind - showed a designer firmly in control of his atelier. And though Ralph used a limited color palette, his simple choices of alabaster, taupe, oyster and whites were impeccable.

In short, this US-made collection was very much at home during the Paris couture season.

And that recipe is a clear secret for success.

Ralph Rucci

Ralph Rucci

Ralph Rucci

Ralph Rucci