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Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2005
New York Fashion Week Spring 2005

Chado Ralph Rucci: Saving The Best For Last
By Mari Davis
Photos by Javier Mateo
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Chado Ralph Rucci DALLAS, Sep 22, 2004/ FW/ --- After 105 shows, the New York season finally comes to an end with Ralph Rucci garnering a standing ovation from the audience for his ready-to-wear line.

Last Sep 15, on the last day of Olympus Fashion Week, designer Ralph Rucci presented his Chado Ralph Rucci line to a capacity crowd at the Plaza under the tents in Bryant Park.

With New York and Dallas’ social set sitting front row, Ralph Rucci redefined American ready-to-wear with his very American silhouettes with European aesthetics.

Opening with 7 models wearing gros de longres rainwear in apple green, black, white, taupe, vanilla and coral, it was obvious from the very start that this collection will break new grounds in terms of how American prêt-a-porter will be perceived.

A trailblazer in his own right, as exemplified with his signature ajouré or openwork on seams in his haute couture line, Ralph Rucci wowed and mesmerized his audience with seemingly simple silhouettes yet with very detailed construction.

Alek Wek’s white embroidered cotton shirt and pant is a great example. It’s a go-anywhere and do anything outfit that can be worn by the ladies while shopping or eating lunch.

Yet if you look at the intricate embroidery that goes horizontal on the bodice and then goes zigzag on the sleeves, you realize that nothing was left to chance in creating the garment. Everything was well thought of.

And that goes for all the 50 looks that were presented last week.

In his show notes, Ralph Rucci wrote: “(I am) trying to make something that is extraordinary but at the same time quiet and discreet.” He did exactly that!

The clothes, though totally captivating and enthralling never shouted or asked for attention; it is the wearer who is highlighted and emphasized.

The Chado Ralph Rucci woman will never be a peacock. She will exude understated elegance while her clothes convey grace and sophistication.

Even the twin set was reinvented in Yfke’s white cotton ottoman jacket paired with diagonal/crisscross strips of white stitched patent/tulle skirt matched with white fingerless gloves.

Jeans became lambskin and sundresses were made of leather. The designer’s love of experimenting with fabrics and sourcing them from the finest mills truly shows in this collection as he did tone on tone fabrics for several of the outfits.

From daywear to eveningwear, it is hard to choose where Ralph Rucci did his best work, because truthfully speaking; each garment is beautiful in its own right. And the best thing about it, the whole collection gelled.

So, when the designer took his bow at the end of the show, the audience stood and from the deafening applause, you can hear them saying Bravo!

 

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