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Ralph Rucci Ready-to-Wear & Fall 2005 Haute Couture: Sumptuously Euro-American Chic
New York Fashion Week Spring 2006
By: Jean Paul Cauvin
Illustration by: Julien Fournie
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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Ralph Rucci NEW YORK, Sep 17, 2005/FW – ‘In my workroom, as in my thoughts, there is little difference between couture and ready-to-wear” says Mr. Rucci.

With his spring 2006 ready-to-wear and fall 2005 haute couture collections shown one after the other tonight, he has proven once more that, although showing in New York, his standards still remain Paris quality.

Sending first on the runway 44 looks for his spring 2006 ready-to-wear, Ralph Rucci started it all with a kimono-like short tunic and pant in white silk embroidered with chinoiseries in white cotton, for a very subtle matte/ shiny contrast.

Followed a leather gold-leafed rain jacket, and his signature silk gros de longres raincoats and rain suits respectively coral red and wasabi green, then in bronze and iced blue.

Wool grain de poudre in red, wool crepe in white, leather and suede in beige were all very carefully designed and refinished sometimes with the House’s elaborate ajoures, in, for instance, vertebrae structures that were not without reminding some of the research operated by Thierry Mugler in his collections.

Craftedly placed inlays of delicately printed muslin on jersey pieces were giving very structured dresses and gowns a delicately fragile aspect.

The most elegant standout came with the use of fauve alligator on eveningwear mixed with muslin that seemed inspired in its print by memories of North-African hennah patterns.

Black, ecru, taupe were the main shades of his fall 2005 haute couture collection which might be differentiated from the previous ready-to-wear only maybe by the use of still more precious fabrics.

A coat with a black and white maze pattern seemed like an eyewink to the Givenchy logo, and many an eveningwear piece seemed to prolong and refine the work that Alexander McQueen had proposed in Paris two seasons ago.

With this presentation of his work, Ralph Rucci certainly proves once more that he knows his craft and keeps opening up an extremely refined track in American fashion with tranquility, grace and integrity. What more could we ask for? A touch of creativity that could also explore new themes would make it just bliss.

 

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