Ralph Rucci: Marrying the Discipline of Art & Philosophy
Photo below: Ralph Rucci on the runway, Fall 2005.
Photo by Javier Mateo
Ralph Rucci marries the discipline of art and philosophy in his designs. This unique approach
to fashion springs from his desire to endow the clothes he makes with not just elegance,
but calm and grace - to dress a woman in a quite manner so that her clothes become a subtle
reflection of her own personality.
"My clothes evole one season at a time," says designer Ralph Rucci. "Every collection builds
on the past."
Each collection also builds on his dictionary of collected images, from the work of the artists
he finds most inspiring -- Francis Bacon, Joseph Beuys, Cy Twombly, Antonio Tapies and Yves
Dana among others.
These images inspire Rucci through color, form and awareness, and allow him to reach into
the collective consciousness that we all share.
They provide a raw space, where he can then begin to develop his signature cuts and seaming.
While developing the lines and shapes of a collection, Rucci also works closely with mills
to create new fabrics, as well as revive historically important cloths.
He designs all of his prints, based primarily on his own watercolor or acrylic art, and
collaborates with embroidery houses, especially the house of Lesage, Paris, to find hand work
that is not only infused with energy by the actual making of clothes -- the hand tailoring,
the execution of fit, and the rigor of technique.
His New York atelier includes individuals who have worked with him for most of the 23 years
he has been designing, and together, they have established a signature voice, informing the
clothes with discipline and positive energy.
After graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology in 1980, Rucci pursued his career
along various paths, designing for other firms in both America and Europe, as well as his own.
In 1981, he showed a signature collection, through which he met and developed a small made-to-order
clientele.
It was this collection that he planted the seeds that he cultivates, refines and evolves from
season to season.
In 1994, he renamed his company CHADO RALPH RUCCI, after the Japanese tea ceremony. He chose
the name in order to mirror the reverence, respect and integrity he holds for his profession,
and because those were the qualities he wanted to explore through his clothes.
He felt that they would then have a positive effect not only the woman wearing the clothes,
but also on the space around her.
The word "chado" also serves as a symbol of the extraordinary staff that he has developed
throughout the years.
The combination of Rucci's reverence to traditions and techniques of Haute Couture, and the
dedication and talent of his staff has allowed him to introduce Ralph Rucci CHADO Haute
Couture Collection, which is shown twice yearly in Paris with gracious permission of the
Chambre Syndicale de la uate Couture.
He is the first American designer since Mainbocher included on the Haute Couture schedule as
an individual member.
Click on image to read the review and view the collection.
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