PARIS, Jul 12, 2002/ --- Some six decades after the last American couturier presented a signature collection in Paris, Ralph Rucci made his Paris debut with an assured and thoroughly elegant collection that would almost certainly have pleased his only predecessor, Mainbocher.

Famed for his dictum "suitability is half the secret of being well dressed," Mainbocher could only have admired the sense of understatement in Rucci's Paris launch.

His presentation was a far cry from the mega bashes of many couture houses -- like Christian Dior or Versace -- where what seems to count most is a flashy front row or the post-show rave.

Rucci showed in the neo-classical setting of the Hotel d'Evreux in the corner of Place Vendome.

Two nights earlier several thousand had packed into the same space for a Boucheron fete.

Rucci's guest list, by contrast, was limited to less than 100 professionals and a few select clients, like the reigning grand dame of the ladies who lunch, Deeda Blair.

But what about what everyone came to see -- the clothes?

They weren't arrestingly dramatic or likely to be demanded for trashy movie premieres.

Instead they were an exercise in subtle perfection, cut simply and easily in the tradition of American sportswear, which this collection embodies at its most upscale and refined.

Nothing clung or gripped forcefully; everything just hung beautifully, maintaining a discrete distance around the body.

A curvy suit had an air of the '60s about it with its shortened sleeves and matching scarf -- very Jackie Kennedy.

A halter-neck leather and suede dress would take an effortlessly chic woman from an important public appearance to a smart cocktail party.

A completely feathered outfit was much admired by the audience.

And for sporting events in the country, what better than a cashmere cape to shrug off the fall chill?

Given the traditional French reserve towards most things American, it was instructive to hear the views of veteran couture watcher Francois Lesage, whose atelier is the largest supplier of embroidery to Paris houses: "Magnifique! It was great tailored couture."

While Majed Al Sabah, the influential owner of Middle East's most important fashion boutique, Villa Moda in Kuwait, commented: "Very tailored, very classical, very American. He's the new Geoffrey Beene."

Ralph Rucci

Ralph Rucci

Ralph Rucci

Ralph Rucci