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Emilio Cavallini's Debut: Cylindrical Chic
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Visko Hatfield
Mar 20, 2002/ FWD/ --- Emilio Cavallini, an Italian who has made a considerable fortune
with his signature hosiery, made an American debut Monday with his ready-to-wear collection,
created using the same techniques as his tights.
In effect, the entire collection was made up of seamless tubes of wool, Lycra and knits.
The program notes even insisted that Emilio and his team don't even own a sewing machine.
And though the show was a little repetitive, many of the dresses and tops looked sexy and new.
Call it cylindrical chic.
Cavallini, who produces 85 million tights and stockings annually, is determined to diversify
into apparel -- and this Tuscan-born designer is certainly not undertaking this new move on
the cheap.
The show was admittedly staged in the not-hugely-extravagant Puck building in downtown Nolita
but when it came to the models Emilio wasn't thrifty, hiring top-earners like Devon Aoki,
Ana Claudia and Omahyra.
Emilio opened with bouclé tube tops and slinky dresses with computer generated stalagmite
prints worn with thigh boots so high, they practically licked the models' hips.
Geometric designs, web panels and psychedelic images added to the mood.
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The look was figure hugging and hot; and though very unusual, never absurd.
But while many of his outfits would work fine in a nightclub, when it came to daywear
the designer was a lot less assured.
His jogging pants for home with serrated stripes and bumpy wool tops would require the most
sculpted of bodies to really work.
Not perhaps the next big thing, but a label that's definitely worth looking out for.
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