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Gary Graham Spring 2006
New York Fashion Week Spring 2006

Gary Graham: A Symphony In Beige
By Heide Winkenwerder
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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Gary Graham LOS ANGELES, Sep 23, 2005/ FW/ --- It is hard to tell whether Gary Graham is giving homage to UPS who sponsored his show by choosing different washes of brown as his main color palette or just going with the trend of using neutral colors this season.

But one thing is for sure; his beige colored ensemble is like a symphony to perfection.

An alumnus of Gen Art, Gary Graham had been making waves in the New York fashion scene since he made his debut at the Big Apple during the Fall 2002 season.

And although he had been quoted once that he considers himself ‘the poor man’s Galliano,’ the Art of Institute of Chicago grad had been carving his own name via his mastery of fabric treatment.

Some says that he is a deconstructionist, but if you look at his collections, there is a very tailored finish in it as in the case of his Spring 2006 collection.

From the two-piece ensemble of a white skirt paired with a coat-length brown and beige striped top to the sleeveless frock embellished with sequins and lace, Gary Graham’s fabric treatment is nothing short of sensational.

Using ruching, dying, crinkling, even machine quilting, he created volume and texture, that although the collection is predominantly beige, there is vibrancy in it that is usually brought by the use of color.

Standout includes a short-sleeve frock with a ‘corset’ worn outside strategically off-centered for effect. A beige flower and silk edging of the same color finish off the look.

Another take on traditional European tailoring during the time of Marie Antoinette are the snap closures. But instead of putting it at the back, as it was used during that era, Graham used it as a front closure for a blouse. The design was echoed on the sleeves to give it a finished look.

With these, Gary Graham also gave a nod to the European aesthetics trend that started with Kenneth Cole when he opened the season. But instead of looking into contemporary France, Graham went back to the time of the French monarchy for inspiration.

 

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