PARIS, Oct 14, 2002/ FWD/ --- Everybody is watching Colombian-born, Antwerp-trained Frenchman Haider Ackermann.

Based in Belgium, he was just seen in Milan where he presented his first collection for the Italian leather house Ruffo Research.

The collection that he designs under his own name, presented in Paris, was also a triumph, proving that he is original, edgy and on his way to the top.

The white salon-like venue made for an intimate viewing of the clothes.

His sleek collection was a refreshing contrast to the glam movement that appears to be re-emerging, and his small gaggle of tough and strong models was perfectly cast for this cutting-edge collection.

The opening pieces were black knit dresses, net-like, that exposed everything.

They could be easily adapted though, over jeans or pants.

For the most part, Ackermann's pants were cropped at the knee, a bit loose and low-slung, with zippers and a few straps - a sort of updated Balenciaga look.

Tailored shirts in white, blue and black, with bibs, pleats and stitching, were clean and crisp, most of them sleeveless.

A real stand-out in the collection was a pair of airy, light, Baja-style pants, in white with a thick elastic waistband, paired with an impeccably cut blue broadcloth button-down with a white bib.

It was effortless and loose while still strong and stunning-and very fresh and new.

Novelty was in fact one of the most notable things about this collection, as Ackermann did not re-hash looks that have been done before.

He pushes fashion forward with this collection, rather than bringing it back.

While most of the collection was black, taupe, beige and white, the last five dresses painted a rainbow.

Red, orange, green and blue monotone dresses in sheer chiffon, each flowing and cut in a different way, made the statement that Ackermann is a different kind of designer-and that the only direction he is moving in is up.