Haider Ackermann Fall 2004: Haider Ackermann: Elegant Edge
By: Mari Davis
(Photo below: From the Haider Ackermann Fall 2004 collection.

PARIS, Mar 10, 2004/ FW/ --- Haider Ackermann was the 8th show during the day dedicated to emerging designers in Paris last Mar 2, but he was definitely first in terms of artistry and commercial viability.

Colombian-born, Antwerp-trained Frenchman Haider Ackermann also designs for Milan’s Ruffo Research. He chose to show his own line in Paris. Maybe he just wants to be home, but whether he shows in collection either of the two cities, fashion critics will definitely notice him.

Sending his models with silvery, black & pepper slicked-back hair, it was almost a 21st century take on Stepford Wives. But the collection is very far from sci-fi. In fact, there is no hint of sci-fi at all. It’s metropolitan and cosmopolitan, sophisticated and urbane. And the best thing about it – the downtown girl and uptown girl turns into one.

Short-cropped houndstooth jacket cut closely to the body, paired with a mannish white shirt and black leather pants, red satin pants with cummerbund gave it a feeling of androgyny.

But when a model came out in a black lacy dress and a chiffon-like plastic long coat that will double as a raincoat, there was femininity written all over the collection!

Knitted bulky sweater coats were paired with black leather pants and white satin jewel-neckline shirts and sneakers.

It sounds contradictory, but the look worked, and that’s what counts.

Haider Ackermann might be new in the world of fashion, but upon seeing his collection, you get a feeling that he has been there a long time.

He knows exactly what his audience is looking for. The burst of applause he received at the end of the show is proof of that.

Fall 2004 (Photo by Javier Mateo)

ALEXANDRE HERCHOVITCH
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