NEW YORK, Feb 25, 2003/ FWD/ --- You can't deny the guy's got drive. Oliver Christian Herold has had a heck of a time staging a successful New York show. His first, held on September 10, 2001, was soon eclipsed, and last season he was forced to cancel his show in the final hour after being hospitalized for acute pancreatitis.

But this ambitious designer-by-day-stockbroker-by-night has persevered and, now, partnered with Porsche and pulled off a show at the Plaza.

Monday's presentation, which introduced not only Herold's latest collection but also the Cayenne, Porsche's new SUV, was appropriately dedicated to the open road. "It's very 1950s American highway inspired," explained a Buddy Holly-bespectacled Herold after the show. "It's about American transportation ... all we've accomplished and all that we have."

The Route 66 theme kicked off with a series of navy and black wool crepe skirt suits and dresses adorned with automobile-embroidered friezes. The classic '50s cuts were paired with fishnets and heels, and in some cases tiny pinned-on hats complete with netting. A couple models were also sporting Porsche silk ties.

When the big band sound of the original "Get Your Kicks on Route 66" switched to a rock 'n' roll interpretation of the tune, the clothes went along for the ride and suits were swapped for burgundy printed lambskin leather pants, wool-backed laser cut leather skirts and black leather-ish paper silk shirts.

The looks that worked best though were the floral silk tuxedo-style shirts, paired with wool crepe slim skirts in vibrant pinks or purples. Silver chain belts, dangling the requisite charms of Route 66 kitsch, completed the looks. A couple alpaca capes, however, were more Alps than American West, and a floral-printed rabbit fur capelet was a bit of a mystery.

A series of embroidered lace and chiffon evening pieces - and a couple well-cut pairs of satin stove-pipe pants -- closed the show, and were refreshingly free of car imagery, save one model toting a Porsche titanium cosmetic case.

Herold clearly has high hopes for this collection. He revealed backstage that last month he cut back to part-time as a broker at Quick & Reilly to concentrate more fully on his eponymous line. "We're switching gears," he said, laughing as he caught his inadvertent car reference. "No pun intended ... really."