Photos courtesy of Erickson Beamon-FWD
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All Grown Up: Erickson Beamon Celebrates Its 20th
By Karin Nelson
Mar 23, 2003/ FWD/ --- This April 27th will mark 20 years since Erickson Beamon's Karen and Erik Erickson crafted their first trademark crystal-and-bead, suede-strung necklaces -- but chances are the couple won't be throwing a blowout, press-infested anniversary party. It just wouldn't be their style.
Yes, their ornately-tangled, part-Victorian, part-Baroque, part-pirate booty, "never boring" costume pieces are worn by such spotlight stars as Nicole Kidman, Kate Moss, Courtney Love, Milla Jovovich, and Cher. And, yes, the Ericksons have become known as "designers' designers," creating elaborate runway jewelry for the likes of John Galliano, Givenchy, Chanel, Donna Karan, Anna Sui, Emanuel Ungaro, Zac Posen, and Marc Jacobs.
Nevertheless, pomp and fanfare make Karen a little nervous. "I'm shy," she concedes.
This, ironically, from a woman who owns and runs Showroom Seven, one of the most important fashion showrooms/PR houses in New York - and, soon to be, Paris. As a result, Erickson Beamon has remained in the past two decades behind the scenes -- or backstage, if you will - quietly crafting six collections a year from a production room in its Seventh Avenue offices.
"Everything we do is made by hand, by people who have been working here for 15 years, and I think that's really important. I'm not interested in making 'cheap' jewelry," she insists, allowing an employee's baby, who's sitting on her lap, to gnaw on a lavishly baubled choker from the spring collection.
Karen Erickson is also not interested in what the rest of the industry is doing. In fact, it is usually Erickson Beamon that initiates trends with its runway collections. One highly influential -- and relentlessly knocked-off -- pair of chandelier earrings that they designed hangs in the Surrealist exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
"It's all about maintaining a fresh approach," Karen offers. And that approach comes in the form of a beaded, metal lace that took 18 years to perfect, vintage white Swarovski crystals that are no longer made, mineral slices that hang on charm necklaces, sea-swept strands of chalcedony and gold chain, and the use of precious stones such as rubies, sapphires and diamonds.
You won't, however, see Erickson (who borrowed her wedding ring and still doesn't have her own) wearing any of it. "I'm not a jewelry person - I would never go into a jewelry store," she meekly admits. "And I think that's what sets us apart - we're the antithesis of jewelry."
Erickson Beamon is available at Barneys, Fred Segal, and Ikram in Chicago, as well as at wholesale prices at Showroom Seven's new boutique, Outlet 7, located at 117 East 7th St. (212.529.0766) in NYC
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