NEW YORK, Sep 15, 2006/ FW/ --- Since last season, Luca Orlandi had changed the time for his catwalk presentation from evening to late afternoon, and still celebrities and socialites still find time in their busy schedule to attend his show.

With Nicky & Paris Hilton sitting front row, together with Michelle Tractenberg, Alexis Bledel, Kanye West and Ivana Trump among others, Luca Orlandi sent sharply tailored minis, cocktail dresses, cigarette pants and flowing gowns on the runway that would delight the 5th Avenue crowd and their counterparts in all major cities of the western world.

Orlandi, who had always been known for his overtly sexy creations shifted gear a few seasons back, focusing more on sensuality on one hand and tailoring techniques on the other.

With his newly found aesthetics, Orlandi’s skill as a tailor continues to shine while his clients and fans multiply.

Choosing a neutral color palette of gray, black and white, with splashes of red and graphical prints for spice, Luca Orlandi dressed his ladies from day to night, beginning with the opening number of a linen and rayon raincoat, worn over tulle and silk shantung tank and striped silk and cotton ottoman skirt. He then closed with a rib jersey tank top on a pin-tucked organza floor length skirt, which actually looked more like a gown than just a frock.

Trousers are slim and figure hugging, then cuffed at the ankles to give a little volume. Empire cocktail dresses with flowing skirts, that sometimes comes with a tube top or bustier-inspired can do double-duty as a day dress to eveningwear, perfect to bring to a cruise or spring break vacation when a lady wants to travel light.

Breaking new grounds in high street fashion, Luca Orlandi made the tank top and tee as a must have item, pairing them with pleated and shantung skirts, or layered on a bustier-inspired cocktail dress.

Adding beading and open trim work on the tank top and tee, it became eveningwear when worn with dress pants and short-cropped jacket. Or, as in his finale, the ribbed jersey tee became the top of an empire waist pin tucked gray organza skirt.

Orlandi, who has always pushed the envelope when it comes to uptown dressing exercised restraint in both volume and texture, using embroidery sparingly on a monochromatic hue and opting for a very slight sheering and pleating, which just enough for the garment to drape softly but not lose its tailored look.

A well-edited and perfectly coherent collection, Luca Orlandi just raised the bar on himself on the 33 exits that he presented.

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