MILAN, Feb 19, 2007/ FW/ --- Pringle of Scotland might have been the last show of the day among the big names today, but it is definitely in the forefront of innovations as Clare Waight Keller unveiled her new direction for knitwear while continuing to push the boundaries of the historic company’s rich heritage.

Opening with a black cable knit sweater jacket that was paired with a tarnished bronze sheered mini skirt rolled at the hem, the restrained flounce of the knits could easily be observed even from afar.

There is lightness and structure to it; the volume was only hinted at with the crochet-like knitting.

Seemingly inspired by the Teddy Girls of the 1950s whose ‘Teddy dress’ was a version of the Edwardian-era costume, the collection featured coats, jackets and dresses with mutton sleeves in different proportions from a tiny puff sleeve that ended into a band of tubular pleats to the long-sleeved version, with controlled volume.

Waight Keller also put the dirndl back into the limelight – tight bodice, short sleeves, low neck and gathered skirts. But, it was proposed with shorter proportions and the necklines were cosseted with modern cable stoles, resulting to a very contemporary and highly covetable look.

The circular skirts, another favorite of the Teddy Girls were given bands at the hemline, giving it structure and controlled flounce.

The gores, another staple of the Edwardian era dressing that was adopted by the Teddy Girls, were transplanted to the coats and jackets, giving it a sense of freedom and movement.

Polished and refined, the Pringle of Scotland Fall 2007 / Winter 2008 collection by Clare Waight Keller is a confident assertion of quiet luxury that refuses to go unnoticed.