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Y & Kei's Tomboy Goddesses
By: Eri Kim
Photos by: Visko Hatfield
Mar 24, 2002/FWD/ --- Y & Kei's title for their fall 2002 collection, "Venus as a boy," was
somewhat misleading - which turns out to be a happy accident.
Instead of straightforward "Victor/Victoria" looks, the Korean husband and wife team of
Han-hee Yoon and Jin-young Kang drew inspiration from traditionally masculine themes -
from athletic gear to western getups to pinstriped suits - and gave each a unique and
feminine twist.
The result was clothes for an entirely new type of woman: the tomboy goddess.
Printed mesh - the kind used for basketball shorts and football jerseys - played heavily
in the first, athletic inspired group.
Devon Aoki strutted down the runway in a beige sleeveless top with brassier taping worn
over a brown, shiny cargo pant -- baggy and low on the hips.
Low-rise "Track pants" were cut in a narrow bootleg, making them probably the hippest
track pants around.
Collette followed in a mesh athletic top over a long suede skirt with wild lace and
fur embellishments on the side.
In another look, a perfectly cut wide men's pinstripe pant was topped with a mesh muscle tank.
But the winners of the group - and certainly the most photogenic - were multi-pleat mesh
patchwork skirts, tight at the hips and flaring into a semi-mermaid swirl below the knee.
What followed bore a distinctly urban Western feel. Plenty of light blue denim with beige
floral appliqués set a lighter tone than last winter's heavily painted black jeans, as did
cowboy boots that were dolled up with lace and fur spats.
The duo - who already run two successful contemporary lines in Korea - did reprise some
black denim looks for this, their second New York show, but they were of a completely
different ilk.
Proving Yoon and Kang's knack for reinterpreting contemporary trends, the two showed
oversized, hip-hop inspired black denims that were saved from disaster by a clever cut
that avoided a too tapered leg.
And believe it or not, an oversized denim overall with a belt trim and lace and fur
embellishment was actually a hot number.
For the less adventurous there were flirty dresses and tops in a muted turquoise and purple
flower pattern or silk dresses and tops with a tie going around the neckline that fastened
at the side.
Many of the items came with what are becoming the duo's signature styles: appliqués, and
seemingly random strands and straps dangling down.
Though they might not be practical, those features were certainly pretty and seductive.
Y & Kei also delivered some grownup glam rock suits a la David Bowie.
The suits came in a loose, long silhouette, like the double lapel wool jacket with an
oversized men's wool pant modeled by Rie Rasmussen.
Another number had one pleated sleeve, which ballooned with the model's movement.
The same idea was also applied to a pant.
And lending the whole group its special touch were mannish leather shoes with nylon belt
straps.
While some might argue that the pair's clothes are a tad contrived, when they're that cool,
it doesn't really matter.
Backstage: Y&Kei
Backstage: Y&Kei
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