NEW YORK, Feb 20, 2003/ FW/ --- After being bombarded by the mad MOD world for one week at the tents, it was heavenly to sit down at the serene setting of Zang Toi's show at the Pavillion in Bryant Park.

Set in old Japan, the stage was decorated with Japanese pagodas reproduced from the work of 18th century Japanese artist Ogata Korin.

And it was not only the stage set that Korin stimulated. Zang Toi's Fall 2003 collection entitled 'Old Japan Through the Eyes of a New Yorker' was inspired by Korin's work and the Kabuki theater costumes of Nippon.

The serenity of the Japanese countryside matched with the high drama of the Kabuki theater, two contrasting elements which Zang Toi converged in this dramatic collection worthy of the Oscar red carpet.

Starting with a black gown ensemble, with the hem trimmed with fur, the top embroidered in purple encrusted with diamante crystals, and a wrap that trails to the floor, again trimmed with fur, Zang Toi established the beat of the show.

It was glam, it was high drama, it was pure luxury!

The obi became a work of art with embroidery from Korin's screens. The Japanese kimono became a palette of Zang Toi's artistry - embroidery, appliques, Swavkorsi crystals added for effect.

It was not derivative of Ogata Korin's art. Korin was just the stimulant and the muse. It was the work of Zang Toi - the artist and fashion designer.

Ling Tan, Zang Toi's friend, favorite model and sometime muse was beautifully seductive in her gown of pure black - the skirt trimmed with fur at regular intervals, creating a striped look. Her wrap was treated the same way, except that the fur stripes were thinner, and in between the stripes was black embroidery, again, encrusted with diamante to add sparkle.

The coup de grace - her exquisitely embroidered fan which is not just an accessory in old Japan. It was also a weapon, it was also a sign of demureness. Ling played it all up in one walk. Yes, the lady can emote!

As you are getting comfortable with the gowns, Zang Toi changed the beat and brought more modern sets - mini-skirts in gold and black, tailored pants matched with fur jackets which would have made PETA gasp.

It was for the ladies who lunch, it was for the career woman who has to work and take care of her family too. It was for the young heiresses, it was for the young college graduates. In short, you cannot go wrong in any of these outfits.

Though the whole collection was sumptous and has elements of the theater, the best thing about it is that most of them can just go from the runway to the showroom.

In short, it was a very wearable collection! You don't have to take off anything, except perhaps the obi from the more theatrical pieces which were placed there because after all, this is a runway show and the audience expects drama!

And judging from the retail buyers busy scribbling down notes, they agree with my assessment.

The only downside on this one - I have to wait until fall to buy these outfits at Nordstrom.

Zang Toi

Zang Toi