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Zang Toi Fall 2004: The Best of Shows
New York Fashion Week Fall 2004
By Mari Davis
Photos by Javier Mateo
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Zang Toi NEW YORK, Feb 13, 2004/ FW/ --- Friday the 13th might sound ominous to others, but the date gave New York-based designer Zang Toi the best of luck – a standing ovation, the best runway show and best collection shown during the last day of New York Fashion Week.

With Farah Fawcett, Patti LaBelle and the current Miss USA-Universe sitting front row, Zang Toi celebrated the timeless beauty of Parisienne Society on the runway.

The backdrop of fresh flowers arranged like a crest was already reminiscent of the beautiful gardens of the Palace of Versailles.

So, when the first model came out wearing a mini tiger stripe fur coat with a ribbon sash complete with black stockings by Wolford held up with a garter belt, the audience immediately gave a resounding applause, a harbinger of what was to come during the show.

As the models showed the 40 looks in the collections, they garnered applause from the audience (I stopped counting after the 10th one). Sometimes, they get two – when they come out and when they unveil the dress inside the fur coat they were wearing, like the Paris pink silk satin film star gown with mink border and beaded bodice matched with a Paris pink fox film star stole.

The audience’s reaction was understandable. It is hard not be affected by Zang Toi’s artistry in this collection.

In his show notes, he mentioned that he was inspired by the stylish beauty of Catherine Deneuve, Jean Moreay, Marie-Helene de Rothschild, Josephine Baker, Victoire De Castellane and Audrey Tautou, all of which are legendary beauties in their own right.

And though not one of them was on the runway today, their spirits were, as Zang Toi brought to life the allure and magic of their fabulous styles.

And with Zang Toi’s craftsmanship, there was something added to it, a dream-like quality, that is sometimes playful even coquettish.

His interpretation of the French maid – a mini spaghetti strap black dress done in mini pleats complete with black stockings with a line at the back garnered smiles and applause from the audience.

The dress name, “La Coquette” was perfect for it. Press and buyers immediately made notes on their run-of-show when the model exited, probably something to write about and/or put on their shopping list.

With a show like this, it is really hard to choose a favorite because there are so many choose from.

But I have to accept that there are two looks which I would love to get my hands on – the lacquer red hand-loomed rayon Chinoiserie gown with beaded and embroidered flowers and butterflies with spaghetti straps and the pink version of it with a scoop neckline and low-back.

These two gowns defined Zang Toi’s artistry this season and showed the designer’s growth in terms of haute couture techniques.

And this is also the reason why Zang Toi’s shows are always a “must see” during fashion week. The designer’s quest for perfection, to create the perfect look, makes him raise the bar on himself every time.

His audience and his fans recognize that drive, Zang Toi’s pursuit to always give them the best he can offer.

So, when the finale, a black royal fox and feathers queen bee wrap, called, “The Oriental Ball Gown” of Baronness Marie-Helene De Rothschild featuring an embroidered and beaded tiger on the train came out, the audience broke out into a resounding applause, an applause that did not die down until Zang Toi took his bow.

One of his fans sitting at the front row gave him a bouquet of roses, which in turn, Zang Toi gave to one of the female photographers at the pit, an act that gave him more applause.

Yet the most heartwarming of all was seeing the whole room give Zang Toi a standing ovation.

The lights have not dimmed yet to signal the end of the show when Farah Fawcett stepped on the runway to give Zang Toi a hug and a kiss.

Needless to say, most of the audience followed suit, including Miss USA-Universe who will be bringing some of Zang Toi’s creations in Ecuador this summer for the Miss Universe Beauty Pageant.

So, don't be surprised if you see one of Zang Toi's gowns during the Evening Gown competition!

 

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