DALLAS, May 23, 2007 / FW --- Zang Toi, one of the most sought-after designers in New York has collaborated with the Malaysian monarch HRH The Raja Perempuan of Kelantan for a capsule collection unveiled last month at a gala dinner celebrating the launch of the Malaysia-Kelantan Food Festival in New York.

Unknown to many, HRH The Raja Perempuan of Kelantan knows the secret of fabric designing and weaving. A traditional craft in Malaysia that existed long before the Europeans came to the Far East, the techniques of fabric weaving is handed down from generation to generation.

And to help in the development of the fabric industry in Kelantan, the Malaysian monarch took time off from her busy schedule and created ‘Songket, a special woven fabric that was designed by the Queen herself.

“Last December, when HRH The Raja Perempuan of Kelantan asked me to design a capsule collection based on Songket, we agreed that the colors and the style have to be contemporary so that the fabric will be within the world’s modern standards of dressing,” Zang Toi said as he related to FashionWindows how the project started.

Departing from the traditional Malaysian colors that are bold and bright, Zang Toi steered the creative process to include black, white and silver.

Reworking the silhouette of the Malaysia’s national costume, Zang Toi then created gowns and cocktail dresses that are modern and fresh with the Malaysian aesthetics still very recognizable.

As a point of reference, the fashion show’s highlight was Malaysia’s top model Ling Tan wearing a museum piece, the Cik Siti Wan Kembang, a royal ensemble that was worn by a queen over 100 years ago.

The Cik Siti Wan Kembang has all the elements required for the traditional royal dressing in Malaysia, beginning with the ‘coronet.’ All in solid gold, it is hand made and features miniature spear tips, a symbol of protection.

The dress is actually made of three pieces: the Kain Songket, the Kain Limar and the Kain Songket Limar Songket.

The Kain Songket, the main piece, is a silk sarong with gold woven into it (done in orange and gold for the Cik Siti Wan Kembang costume). The Kain Limar is made of silk done in tie-dyed motif (maroon and green) and layered over the Kain Songket. In western terms and fashion lingo, this will be an ‘apron.’

The Kain Songket Limar Songket, is a knee-length cape, the equivalent of the modern day jacket or shawl in city dressing. Made of silk, it is woven with gold thread and tie dying applied, making the Kain Songket Limar Songket the centerpiece of the outfit.

Jewelry is a big part of the costume, beginning with the Pemeleh, which is worn on the ear and can only be called a dangling earring that reaches all the way to the bustline.

The Dukuh, which is a necklace, is still technically jewelry but does double duty as a talisman with two pieces of betel nut leaves and two pieces of gold coins, with the center piece in a shape of a flower.

The belt is inlaid with gold in floral pattern while the buckle is in solid gold carved like a flower with an emerald in the center. After the magnificence of the belt, the anklet, which is also made of solid gold in special Kelantanese motif design, seems insignificant. Still, one cannot deny the delicateness of the velvet slippers hand embroidered in gold thread.

With the pomp and pageantry of the Cik Siti Wan Kembang as basis, Zang Toi had to translate it into contemporary silhouettes that the social set can relate to. The orange and gold sarong became a white and silver strapless gown with a tiny knot in front and a train that began from the middle of the back all the way to the hemline, ending to about a 23” train.

The iconic Malaysian motif was woven into the white fabric in silver and shown on the front of the dress.

The Kain Songket Limar Songket, the centerpiece of the Cik Siti Wan Kembang was also translated in white and silver. To emphasize its importance, Zang Toi started with a minimalist all white pantsuit set with a thin gray belt as the only accessory.

Instead of being knee length, the cape reached all the way to the floor. With wide and oversized sleeves like the traditional cut, Zang Toi then widened the placket by using layered pleats.

Again, the iconic Malaysian motif was done in silver and woven into the fabric, this time shown on the shoulders. But, instead of tie-dye, the Malaysian born designer opted for appliqués on the wrists, again showing the iconic Malaysian motif.

The same technique was used on a black & silver rendition, but the cut was less elaborate, and the cape only reaching just above the knee; Zang Toi’s vision of the silhouette as daywear.

Speaking of daywear, the Kain Songket became the inspiration. Shift dresses in black and in white were proposed with silver prints.

“I want the gowns and dresses to be worn and not become museum pieces,” explained Zang Toi on his very wearable and highly covetable take on the capsule collection.

‘HRH The Raja Perempuan of Kelantan designed the fabric to promote the fabric industry and help the people of Malaysia. The least I can do is to make it highly desirable and do justice to the beautiful fabric,” Zang Toi added.

And from the looks of it, the Queen agrees as she presented Zang Toi with a bouquet of flowers after the catwalk show.

The Cik Siti Wan Kembang

Zang Toi

Zang Toi

Zang Toi

Zang Toi

Zang Toi

Zang Toi

Zang Toi

Zang Toi