MILAN, Jun 26, 2006/ FW/ --- Alexander McQueen’s sense of theatre always plays to the fashion crowd but sometimes it’s hard to see how certain collections could translate beyond this, shall we say, particular audience. This time out however he was right on the money with a show which lightly trod the line between mass-market appeal and esoteric beauty.

If it was a show which just about everyone could relate to somehow then it seems that McQueen is determined to confuse us somewhere along the line. Witness for example a collection shown in a renaissance palazzo to the delicate strains of musica classica, a collection that spoke of gentle pinks and pastel blues, of the refined elegance of Sixties Riviera style tailoring, of a collection called Harlem.

Harlem? I would tell you the official explanation but it doesn’t really explain much; suffice to say that it’s got nothing to do with Harlem.

The opening section was familiar territory for McQueen and allowed him to do what he does best – re-working traditional themes while giving tailoring a modern edge.

Here the slim silhouettes with their low waisted trousers, wide lapels and classic loafers recalled the heyday of Portofino with gold leaf broaches on the lapel or belt adding a touch of luxury.

With his Savile Row heritage, perhaps no one around these days can match McQueen’s precise technique when it comes to cutting the cloth but what was striking here was the delicacy of the overall effects with subtle tone on tone Prince of Wales checks suggesting a quiet elegance rather than brassy showmanship.

Delicacy was in fact the overriding ethos of the collection with fragile moth motifs adorning easy silk v-neck pulls and broderie anglaise detailing lending suits a luxurious fin de siecle appeal.

The final word however must go to the craftsmanship that marks McQueen out as a master of his trade. The three dimensional pleated effect achieved on a summer jacket was breathtaking in its construction.

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen