March 19, 2002/ FWD/ --- "It's all about the Park Avenue princess," explained Alice Roi, backstage at her fall 2002 collection.

"Ever since last season, clean, polished looks just seemed right."

But before you think Roi had gone the route of Bill Blass, think again - this is, after all, a downtown designer keen on kitsch.

Consequently, the looks ranged from private school headmistress -- complete with grosgrain-bowed Ferragamo flats -- to polite, white-wearing church-goer, with a dash of what makeup artist Charlie Green called "haughty naughty" (thanks to moon-detailed fake nails and fake eyelashes with blue mascara).

Gliding down the runway before the watchful eyes of Roi's friends Frederique Van der Wal and Lizzie Grubman were box-pleated camisoles, boxy fisherman sweaters, printed chiffon blouses, and ivory silk twin-sets, paired with polite knee-length pleated skirts and well-cut, wide-legged pants in lush velvets and thin wools.

Long-sleeved dresses in cashmere and fine wool were fitted but free of sexual innuendoes. Cream and navy velvet coats swung loosely ‘60s-style well above the knee.

Roi paid much attention to many of the pieces, hand-painting them with burnt-out "fish" prints, as the intended fabrics, with the tropical prints already burnt into them, were still, unfortunately, stuck in customs.

Completing the conservative package: white tights, fine jewelry from Michael C. Fina, and peculiar but prim white caps with lace elephant ears from Eugenia Kim.

For the most part, it was clothing in which to meet the intended in-laws (if you're from the baby-boom generation).

But the most "dangerous" looks tended to be the strongest, and -- along with the lush, wide-legged trousers -- probably the most retail-friendly: a pair of sexy red and gold brocade wide-legged pants, paired with a red cashmere tank over a wool top with organza cuffs and collar; a red and gold brocade bolero, worn with cream wool trousers; and a brown silk bishop-sleeved dress, un-buttoned just a little low.

Alice Roi Fall 2002

Alice Roi Fall 2002