NEW YORK, Feb 15, 2002/ FWD/ --- This season Betsey Johnson titled her collection "Sisters," dedicating it to the sisterhood of employees who work for her.

Modeling the clothes were - you guessed it - the women who keep the Betsey machine going.

In charge of dolling up the "regular" girls was makeup artist Charlie Green, who went for a "Henry and June, Parisian smoky eye."

Instead of using black, Green opted for gray eye shadow, explaining that gray was an easier color for most women to wear.

"The key to do the smoky eye is to outline the outside of the eye with a pencil first and then layer the eye shadow on it," Green said.

To create the silent movie inspired look, Green used Bourjois' Gris Estompe shadow, eyeliner in black and multiple coats of Volume Glamour mascara.

"Since these are not models I don't want to give them the cookie-cutter look, so the cheeks and lips will be a little different on each," Green said, though she added that everyone would get "dark lips" ranging from brown to grape.

Hairstylist Italo Gregorio for Warren Tricomi also decided to give each model her own wild 'do.

"My main inspiration was the Cotton Club - but always on the rock side," he said.

"The girls have to look like they belong to the same gang but I created two styles. One is wavy and more retro. The other one is still '40s but more punk with asymmetric strands."

To hole the crazy waved, ironed and braided looks together, Gregorio used "every product there is" from mousse to gels and spray.

His favorite was Redken's mousse, which gives hair a great texture, he said.

Completing the look were acrylic nails from Creative Nail Designs with rust moons, a black French manicure line and bright red tips.

The nails were kept on the shorter side from the thumbs to the ring fingers and an extra-long pinkie nail with dragon adornments provided the extra oomph.

Held at the Betsey Johnson showroom, the show was an intimate affair, with probably not more than 100 seats.

After a high-spirited Johnson climbed on the makeshift runway, welcoming everyone - her front row included loyal supporters Patricia Field and Philip Bloch - the show began.

While the designer held up cards citing the name of the employee and her title, which included her daughter/creative director Lulu, the girls themselves climbed up some stairs to the runway and in true Betsey spirit, swayed their hips, danced and naughtily posed for the cameras.

The collection was a '40s-inspired array of flapper dresses, corsets and separates with a Betsey twist.

The color palette included some hot pinks, bright blues and pastels, mixed with khaki and gold.

The designer also showed knickerbockers - though hers came with front slit, revealing a lot of thigh - perfect for the Gwen Stefani kind of girl.

A zephyr silk dress had vertical zippers all around, emphasizing the body's curves.

Also charming was a peach cotton eyelet blouse with a pleated zipper mini.

The curve-embracing and -enhancing dresses generally steered toward the theatrical with long, asymmetrical hems and airbrushed rose patterns and lace details.

As usual, tops came low cut, with the bras fully exposed.

Another feature were round cut-out backs seen on dresses as well as knits.

Johnson usually has a couple of signature prints for a season and this time - apart from the airbrushed flowers - tiger or wolf images were used as appliqués on several coats and jackets.

Furry vests and capes made of bushy tails were another staple, as were gold necklaces and little belts.

Betsey Johnson is and will be always Betsey Johnson -- and while her collections are not necessarily surprising or groundbreaking, they'll always put you in a good mood.

Betsey Johnson Fashion

Betsey Johnson Fashion