MILAN, Jan 17, 2003 /FWD/ --- Calvin Klein went back to what he has always done better than anyone, personally presenting a collection that was lean and clean to the fashion media in Milan Wednesday.

The presentation in his European headquarters marked the first season since Klein's house was sold to Phillips-Van Heusen in December for $400 million.

And though rumors are circulating in Milan about the future fate of his European headquarters (see related story), the fashion, accessories, ad campaign and limited edition cK one graffiti scent packaging from a trio of artists that Klein unveiled here showed how much life there is in this house.

"The collection is more grown up, more elegant. There's no sloppy sportswear, nothing active," explained Klein, walking FWD through the 20 some looks presented on plastic models from the fall winter 2003 men's signature collection.

"It's a moment when all men need to be more secure and confident. Are we going to war? And against who? Will you have a job at the end of the month?" expostulated the designer.

The collection has significantly moved away from the mono-color obsession of recent seasons and featured lots of subtle plays and mixes of texture and hues. Slim dark suits came with charcoal and gray shirts and jacquard ties where the weave produced clever light effects. The silhouette was trim, and in keeping with the Klein aesthetic, polished, the palette contrasted warm and cool - purples and grape with cinder brown and iron.

The acknowledged king of American marketing also unveiled some cool new ads shot by French great Jean Baptiste Mondino. Entitled "Kiss" and "Touch," the ads featured a suitably downtown longhaired beautiful couple shot at the window of a loft. Thirty and 60-second versions of the campaign will break in European cinemas and TVs this month to advertise a selection of fresh new watches, all Swiss-made, which were also on display.

But the most novel developments were three limited edition scent bottles designed exclusively by artists Espo, Futura and Delta as one-of-a-kind collectible works of art.

Futura's flacon featured his signature punchy silhouette style, Espo's his brash cartoonish aesthetic and Dutch-based Delta his architectural sensibility. Available from April these will be priced at $38.

Attired in slim black jeans and a smart anthracite cashmere sweater with breast pocket, Klein was in an upbeat mood about the recent takeover of the company he founded more than three decades ago.

"It will make no difference to the way I work. If anything, it will make things so much easier, and free me up to concentrate on creating and avoid business and finance and all that sort of stuff," insisted Klein, whose trim figure mimicked his collection.

"Working here keeps me slim not working out!"