NEW YORK, Feb 16, 2002/ FWD/ --- Catherine Malandrino gave a French twist to the American West at an unfinished downtown gallery space.

A harmonica played while models sauntered and sneered in true outlaw fashion.

The first looks, either all cream or black, had a narrow silhouette but an abundance of detail.

The jodhpur-style pants were ruched and ribboned, and the "Wanted" pants were so long and wide they draped over the boots and onto the floor.

These were teamed with intricate and labored blouses, which were embroidered, shirred, caped, tucked, smocked and pleated.

Less structured but equally meticulous were full skirts, embroidered in wine and nude lace, done in crinkled silk and rich velvet, and bias-cut.

There was a fantastic black distressed leather coat, leather embroidered pants and an oversize angora sweater in a creamy caramel color.

No western show would be complete without some serious cowboy boots, and Malandrino sought out the best -- Wendy Lane, who designs and makes one of the largest collections of cowboy boots in America.

"All the boots in the show are handmade and hand tooled from horn back, alligator, stingray, lizard and elephant," said Lane.

"There are also prints of cactus, flowers and bucking broncos."

It was refreshing to see a configured and constructed collection after last season's prettiness, and although Malandrino pulled it off without being too tough, make no mistake: these clothes will bring out your inner ranchero.

Catherine Malandrino

Catherine Malandrino