Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
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Chaiken: Strong & Graceful
Written by: Sara Nolan
Photos by: Visko Hatfield
New York, Feb 12, 2001/ FWD/ ---
Jeff Mahshie, designer for Chaiken, doesn't mince words when he calls his Fall/Winter 2001
collection "eclectic." But unlike the schizophrenic eclecticism that has jumbled so many recent
collections attempting to interpret a new future for fashion, Mahshie and the company's owner
and namesake, Julie Chaiken, send no mixed messages: The Chaiken woman is as strong as she is
graceful -- and more than a little naughty.
Three essential elements hold the collection -- which drew a crowd including Tori Spelling,
former Mahshie colleague John Bartlett, and supermodel Marcus Schenkenberg -- together:
tailoring, silhouette and color. And for a collection that manages to hit notes as far ranging
as Victorian sleeves, shearling motorcycle jackets, velvet smoking suits and draped leather
bustiers, that feat speaks to a sincere understanding of fashion, and suggests that Chaiken
knows exactly where it's going.
As always, Mahshie looked to tailoring to give the collection a distinct look, this time relying
on draping rather than traditional techniques for a sophisticated but sexy look. A number of suits
inspired by the traditional smoking style were excellent examples of his expertise in this arena
-- especially those with a contour line that runs the full length of the pants as opposed to simple
racing stripes.
Then there was the fluency of the slim, ultra-feminine silhouette unifying the diverse fabrics
and styles. Skirts with slightly off-center back slits or diamond pleats added an appropriately
disheveled edge, as did the generous use of thin draped leather tops and lace half-skirts. In
fact, the last look of the show - a camel coat opened to reveal a nude, slightly feathered
slip dress that recalled the peek-a-boo sensuality of fan dancers - was simply called "the morning
after."
Fuchsia accents - on lips, asymmetrical tees, even a calico fox pierce jacket - were the final
tie that bound the line. "Fuchsia ended up being a big color for us this season," said Mahshie
backstage. The colors, which included marine blue and deep chocolates in addition to the line's
usual palette of blacks and neutrals, infused the collection with a young, slightly hard-edged
energy.
But the polish and elegance of the clothes themselves were the strongest elements, bespeaking
their wearability and all but ensuring commercial success - and positioning Chaiken as a solid,
diligent interpreter of modern fashion.
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
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Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
Chaiken Fashion
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