Chanel: Romance Wrapped For A Modern Era
By Timothy Hagy
Photos by Gruber-FWD
PARIS, Oct 9, 2002/ FW/ --- When it comes to creating understated elegance, there is no label,
and no designer finer than Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel.
In fact, one could go even further and say that the Chanel show on Tuesday noon was probably
the highlight of the entire Paris fashion season.
It was left to Mr. Lagerfeld to set things right, and that is just what he did in his
contemporary chic collection.
It was the right thing, at the right time, and the most impressive part of it all was the
sheer youthfulness of the offering.
One of the most difficult things for any designer to do is to maintain a contemporary look
when working for a house with a venerable tradition.
Well, Coco Chanel's tweed suits have given away to micro short mini-skirts with sparkling
black and white jackets, some ornamented with fringe, others draped with metallic belts
for a slick, contemporary look.
The oversized slacks with a blossoming cut oozed airiness.
The affect cried Generation X, Y and I: romance wrapped for a modern era.
It's the same look that Dior Homme's Hedi Slimane captures for men, and not surprisingly Mr.
Lagerfeld has the same gift, and the same eye.
The models made there way down a narrow elevated catwalk that boarded a black crystal lake,
and reinforced the lightness in play.
And then the world's fashion press was there to observe it all, and what they saw was
Lagerfeld at his finest.
This season has seen a chink form in John Galliano's golden armor, a likely fatal blunder
by Julian McDonald, as well as a precarious slip by Tom Ford at Saint Laurent.
So, it came down to Chanel this morning, where the look was the most contemporary and
elegant of them all.
Each piece was carefully coordinated, and though grounded in black and white, certainly
included color, as in a plum suit, or a peach full-length evening dress.
But black was the fabric of choice, whether sprinkled with sequins, or netted in skirts
that sensuously veiled the legs.
And the flowing airiness of it all was perfect for summer.
The accessories were just great, and the attention to detail created a glittering highlight,
be it in a beaded necklace, or a leather belt ornamented by the Chanel signature camellia,
or even in the chain link belts.
For a finale, a mirage of surfboarders sailed down the runway in black, white and gray
swimsuits, some flying buoyant Chanel kites.
And then Karl appeared wearing a black Dior Homme evening suit, and to a standing ovation
and thunderous applause, made his way leisurely around the room.
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