Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel: "A Woman of Her Own"
By: Boyd Davis
Coco Chanel began her career as a fashion designer in 1909.
She was one of the most powerful figure in the women's liberation movement after
World War I.
All over the western world, women were fighting for equality and the right to
vote. One means of expressing this new freedom was through appearance and dress.
Curls, frills
and flounces were out. Short haircuts, tubular flat-chested silhouettes and simplification in
design were in.
Coco Chanel maintained that couturiers were not artists, they were
furnishers. She believed that women should dress simply and comfortably.
The first time she put her theory into practice was during World War I. French women could not
take over the jobs of the fighting men and still wear ornate fashion and hobble skirts.
In her small shop, Chanel offered an alternative style
of dress: men's pullover sweaters, sailor jackets, and straight skirts. The new
working costume was a success and so was Chanel.
Chanel was often inspired by the everyday clothes worn
by working people around her, borrowing from a mechanic's blouse, a ditchdigger's scarf,
and the white collar and cuffs of a waitress for ideas.
The first designer to use wool jersey in women's wear,
Chanel revolutionized the textile industry. Originally, the fabric had been produced to use
in men's underwear, but men found it too "scratchy." However, the jersey appealed
to Chanel who found it perfect for the kind of comfortable and understated apparel she had
in mind.
She was also the first to make costume jewelry socially
acceptable. She popularized the use of "fake" jewe;s by lavishly using rope upon rope of
imitation pearls and other other fake stones to enhance her simple, understated clothes. The
simplicity of her designs made them easy to copy in the factory and she is credited with being the
designer who had the greatest effect on the early development of American mass production.
Until her retirement in 1939, Chanel was the one of the world's most
influential pre-war designers. Her retirement was not permanent, however.
In 1953 she was prompted
into a comeback by her distaste to postwar fashion. In opposition to the cinch-waisted, full-skirted
styles being presented by Dior and other designers, she reintroduced her simple, comfortable
shapes.
By 1959, her famous Chanel Suit had become the "uniform" of well dressed
women all over the world.
Chanel died in 1971 at the age of 88, but under the talented designer Philipppe Guiborge,
her business continued producing clothes which reflect the classic look of Chanel.
The famous numbered Chanel fragrances also continue to be produced, including the legendary
No.5, named by Chanel for her lucky number.
In 1977, the management of Chanel departed from Chanel's preference for
numbers and introduced Cristalle.
In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld took over the House of Chanel as Artistic Director.
Click on image to read the review and view the collection.
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