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Chanel: Karl's Sparkling New Couture
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Paris, Jul 10, 2002/ FWD/ --- Though it remains the quintessential couture house, there was
a novel sense of the new about Chanel’s fashion show in Paris Tuesday.
For starters, Chanel revealed its completely revamped salons redone Liaigre-style in dark
woods, white walls, flat-screen TVs and stunning Murano chandeliers.
But above all it was the clothes themselves that, though classical in proportion, seemed
fresh and modern.
Karl Lagerfeld’s big idea for Chanel this season was encrusting almost every look with
semi-precious stones, crystals and baubles.
Tights came bedecked with hanging charms, ankles wrapped in jade and amber, and petticoats
jangled with little metals, loops and squares.
Rings the size of gold balls in mother of pearl, nacre or glass sprouted from girls’ hands.
For fall/winter, the Chanel couture silhouette is composed of strict, hugging jackets with
peaked shoulders, paired with flared, gently pleated skirts beneath which were the
aforementioned luxurious petticoats.
Models entered down the famed winding staircase so beloved by Mademoiselle Coco, their
high-heels finished with tulle camellias.
Karl’s photo expert Eric Pfunder set up a series of digital video lenses and hand-held "spy"
cameras that projected the show on flat screens and will later be used as footage for the
house’s couture video.
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert outdid herself with upswept buns and extensions that covered the
models’ faces with hair veils.
And the soundtrack, beginning with the tick of a metronome and interspersed with the tingling
of the petticoats, was suitably melodic and a bit different, like the show and the setting.
"Don’t you like the new decor? It’s very new," said Lagerfeld, just like his attire --
Diesel jeans from his own selection for the jeans specialist, white high-collared shirt
and a dapper black satin frock coat.
Karl picked it up from Hedi Slimane’s collection for Christian Dior shown eight days ago.
It won’t reach stores for months, but he’s wearing it already.
Chanel
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