|
Christian Lacroix Leaves Baroque Way Behind
Written by: Dana Thomas
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
(Click on image to see bigger photo.)
Paris, Jan. 23, 2001/ Fashion Wire Daily/ --For his Spring/Summer couture show, presented at the
Ecole des Beaux Arts here today, Christian Lacroix continued his foray into hi-tech design,
using bold colors and computer-like-generated geometric lines to create clothes that were
extraordinary, modern and light as air.
(In fact, the sketches that accompanied the clients'
look list were drawn on a computer by Lacroix, rough pixel edges and all.)
At the same time, Lacroix piled on other themes, too, most notably the gypsy spirit that he has
long loved. Lacroix, who hails from Provence in the south of France, has always woven a bit of
la gitane into his designs.
In the early days, the gypsy was more romantic - frilly lace, dark
veiling, satin ribbons and the pouf skirt.
This time around, she was truly down-and-out, with raggedy hems and patchwork frock that
had a tinge of hobo.
The pouf re-emerged as well, now that it's been brought back in fashion by younger designers
who reference the '80s, Lacroix's belle epoque, though it too was a bit battered, or well-worn.
Lacroix is a master of the complicated outfit, and is one of the very few who can mix up a
dozen completely different fabrics, prints, colors and shapes, and make it look like it all
goes together and like one clear thought.
For example, what Lacroix describes as "a long pleated dress in graduated blue-green, pink
and ivory satins, lined with embroidered braiding and embossed
with iridescent red flowers and a printed ochre and white silk panel" is on the runway a
pastel-hued handkerchief-skirted gown sliced up the front nearly to the waist, so it flowed with
each step, and belted with an obi-like sash.
As always chez Lacroix, the most beautiful clothes were for evening, and there were stunning
pieces, in particular an off-the-shoulder hot pink gazar gown with a plunging neckline and
cinched waist that wafted down the runway.
"How about this?" exclaimed American actress Renee Zellweger after the show.
"The lines!
The colors! And the way the dresses fall! And from the back, the silhouette ... gorgeous!
What a treat!"
What a treat, indeed.
|
Christian Lacroix Haute Couture
Christian Lacroix Haute Couture
Christian Lacroix Haute Couture
Christian Lacroix Haute Couture
|