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A Darkly Mysterious Christian Lacroix
Paris Prêt-á-Porter (Paris Fashion Week) Fall 2007
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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Christian Lacroix DALLAS, May 5, 2007/ FW/ --- Christian Lacroix must be spending a lot of time in his freestanding store in Las Vegas because the gambling fever must have infected him. The French couturier took a risk for Fall 2007; he departed from his signature colorful collection and proposed a predominantly black collection that turned out to be very young and hip.

A black trench coat with hidden placket was generously cut so that when it was cinched with a belt, there was a slight sheer. A traditional outer coat was teamed with a black patent leather corset belt; while its rendition in black leather was adorned with ruching on the bodice and big 3-D pockets.

The skirt of a collarless coatdress was paneled, giving it volume and it was also proposed in black & white graphical print. Both renditions sported obi-wide patent leather belts.

There were very few trousers, unless you count the black leggings; the cute conquistador shorts, that could actually pass for mini-skirts do not count as a pair of pants. There were skater skirts and dresses, too, which could double-duty as daywear and a cocktail dress.

This is a new Christian Lacroix; we all know he is a great colorist. Working with black and white, he demonstrated the he could give it the drama and exuberance that we have come to expect from him.

Couture elements were seen in almost every piece, but instead of encrusted jewels, they were grommets! A little bit industrial, but this is prêt-a-porter and the target market is very young. It’s high energy, even without the colors. Christian Lacroix’s playing with texture and volume gave it the zest that was usually derived from bright colors.

Speaking of colors, the French couturier cannot resist it after all. A great colorist, he decided to use colors on about one-third of the collection starting with a spaghetti-strap mini skirt rolled at the hem proposed in a bright bold prints.

There was the bare shouldered red cocktail dress, the bodice embellished with a fan-shaped bow! Teamed with leather arm warmers studded with grommets, it is “dope,” the new slang term for cool.

In fact, this whole collection can be described as “dope” in keeping with Christian Lacroix’s new mood.

 

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