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Christian Lacroix: Too Much Is ... Too Much
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Paris, Jul 11, 2002/ FWD/ --- Has Christian Lacroix ever heard of the term "pause button"?
He's a greatly talented designer capable of creating clothes of great beauty, but he's
seemingly convinced that too much is never enough.
His frequently elegant fall winter 2003 haute collection shown Tuesday in Paris was very much
a case in point.
It had all Christian's many talents on display, and his one obvious weakness, even if the
former happily overwhelmed the latter.
"A little bit of yesterday for today," was how Lacroix termed his collection.
The show was crammed with historical costume references to 18th century courts, dazzling
bullfighters and Venetian grande signore.
All of the models wore facemasks worthy of the finest ball on La Serenissima, topped by a
score of inspired hats of violet feathers and plumes, twisted, curled and intertwined with
great flourish.
A red invitation, catwalk and program were followed by a powerful opener of a vermilion wool
coat -- ragged and ravishing, it immediately perked up the crowd in the Beaux Arts.
It also underlined the show's Miss Haversham, opulently lived-in quality, with a backdrop
from which hung battered chandeliers, lamps with pearl necklaces, carnival lights and huge
flower necklaces.
Lacroix continues to cut superb frock coats, the best of which came in patchworks of
herringbone, Prince of Wales check and embroidered with flowers and lace.
Cut high in the collar and worn with a swagger, they looked great.
Lacroix is also an inventive tailor, dexterously hanging gladiators' shoulder pads on
chiffon tops, or mixing different fabrics harmoniously in the same garment - sequins, lace,
chiffon, organza and velvet.
But Lacroix's total looks can be overpowering. Watching his shows requires constant editing --
how to pair one of his amazing jackets and coats with a simpler pair of pants or skirt.
His very uniqueness makes Lacroix a difficult designer.
He really is up there in the Pantheon, but his complicated clothes make it difficult to tell
one season apart from another, or work out where and when to wear his demanding concoctions.
Lacroix has probably been told this before, but restrain is also the mark of a master.
It was no surprise that the look that earned the biggest ovation, a blood orange gauze dress,
mellifluously ruffled - was in just one color.
Less is more, Christian.
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