Beatnik Meets Belle du Jour at Clements Ribeiro
Melanie Rickey
Photos by Gruber-FWD
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LONDON, Feb 22, 2003/ FWD/ --- The married fashion design duo Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro have shown their last four collections in Paris. It seemed like a good idea at the time: They also design the young Parisian line Cacharel, which shows in Paris. On Monday night, however, they were welcomed back to the London catwalks with open arms.
"Paris was too uncomfortable for us," says Ribeiro. "We never had good enough time slots, it made our life far too difficult."
Paris or no, it was nevertheless the beatniks and the bourgeoisie of 1960s Paris that shaped most of this collection. High-peaked caps were teamed with adorable molton wool shorts suits in orange or cream; or with natty little navy peacoats, worn with turquoise or rich purple high polo-necks and pleat skirts. A funky two-tone orange striped sweater dresses worn with opaque tights, and a cute satin/wool paneled pinafore worn under a snow-white polo made it in too.
The lady-like looks -- pretty wool princess coats with curved satin paneling, short jackets, ribbon tiered mini, and shapely short printed very Deneuve dresses -- will please Clements Ribeiro's grown-up customers.
As will their best-known contribution to the fashion landscape: fun prints and hugely popular snug-fit cashmere sweaters. The latter came in stripes, abstract patterns, or even in thickly woven crochet panels, all multi-colored in reds, mustards, off-greens and blues. Not all of the collection was derivative; indeed, it was well-trodden Clements Ribeiro territory as their clothes have always been mostly retro with a twist.
The best and simplest look appeared on Erin O'Connor: a striped sweater and satin-edged black wool short skirt, black opaques and high high heels. Very sexy.
"We wanted to provide the flip-side of super-casual," said Ribeiro after the show. "We tried to imagine the spirit of the '60s as opposed to copying it."
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