March 19, 2002/ FWD/ --- Buyers at Bendel, Neiman Marcus and Saks, where die-hard fans go to get their Custo Barcelona fix, will delight in the fall 2002 collection, shown today at the Puck building in Soho.

Designer Custo Dalmau stuck to his signature prints, but this time around he imbued them with a new level of sophistication in cut and style and applied a more subdued color palette.

"Fall 2002 is heavily influenced by '70s street style. There is a lot of denim, leather and patchwork, but the techniques are sophisticated," Dalmau told FWD backstage.

"We have used approaches such as bricking, where squares of fabric are stacked in various combinations; we have weaved metallic thread through fabrics which gives an iridescent look."

"And there is a lot of printing and laminating on the leather pieces."

The evolution from kitsch to a more complex use of prints was evident in beautiful looks like empire waistcoats with subtle '20s Japanese kimono prints for women and knee length skirts with a kick pleat and buckle belt in patterned, slightly faded leather.

Patchwork jeans were printed with delicate designs and then washed, also giving a softer, blanched effect.

Cord knickers were teamed with a form fitting angora sweater and a leather and canvas triple strap print bag.

It seems the Custo girl is growing into a worldly woman about town.

Custo prints have always incorporated travel, inspired by the Dalmau brothers' (Custo and brother David) globetrotting ways.

For men's fall 2002, those prints came directly from colored passports and European maps.

Shirts were fitted and ultra soft, and wide leg pants in cord and canvas had the same comfortable chic.

One pair in particular - a green and navy pinstripe with navy ankle panels - oozed casual cool.

With a Custo Barcelona store to open in Chicago in May and more U.S. cities to follow, it seems the brothers Dalmau are not only intent on refining their unique style - they're bringing it to the masses.

Custo Barcelona Fall 2002

Custo Barcelona Fall 2002