Christian Dior: Front-row Couture and Haute Contortionism
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
Paris, Jan 22, 2002/ FWD/ --- If anyone doubts what a success John Galliano has made of
Christian Dior, they should have checked out the front row when the British couturier
presented the house’s Spring/Summer 2002 haute couture collection.
Gwyneth Paltrow, Gwen Stefani, Sheryl Crow and Rosanna Arquette combined to relegate Wonderbra
model Adriana Karembeu to the second row.
Photo legend Jean Baptiste Mondino chatted with Dior’s jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane,
who tonight throws the season’s most eagerly awaited party, a Val de Vampire at the Ritz.
Guests are requested to dress in "full moon attire."
Under Galliano’s predecessor, Gianfranco Ferre, Dior was never so hip or creative. The fans
come not just to see the spectacle of a Dior show, but also to enjoy one of the richest
imaginations in fashion on display.
The proceedings were kicked off by two muscular Japanese in white loin cloths, beating on
two huge horizontal drums and powered on by a team of drummers blended with Adam Ant on the
soundtrack.
The collection began in Japan before cutting a swathe across Central Asia to end up in Russia
with balalaikas and the Red Army choir.
From the opening outfits, the atmosphere was circus-like - models with giant red faux bearskin
hats, patchwork suede squaw platform boots, and Arcimboldo-style multi-colored woolen wigs.
But the individual pieces themselves were frequently remarkable: peak-shoulder Japanese
imperial coats with elaborate embroidery, courtier doublets, and padded denim jackets with
superb needlework were amazing.
There were also several redingotes in what at first seemed upholstery fabric but on close
inspection turned out to be strips of exotic skins. John also dreamed up a few fun new bags,
including a giant version of his famed saddlebag and huge shoulder bag in fur.
Half way through the collection, Galliano sent the crazed drummers out on the catwalk, led by
a deranged Samurai with horns.
A trio of elastic contortionists, the last of whom sat down and wrapped her foot around her
head, followed these.
For his finale, a massive shower of red glitter spewed out over the catwalk, and the models
marched past like some triumphant army.
A muscular, tanned Galliano then appeared to take his bow in his latest incarnation - toreador
pants and sneakers - the world and fashion his oyster.
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