PARIS, Mar 6, 2003/ FW/ --- John Galliano sent out a ravishing wintertime collection this afternoon, frosted with his golden touch.

As organza ruffles in strawberry, apricot and vanilla piled high on the shoulders like whipped cream, it was immediately clear that Christian Dior's star designer was sending out a hit.

And, my, how times have changed.

Gone were the spewing gold glitter, the somersaulting Japanese trapeze artists, the staggering spectacles that verged on excess.

In was an understated production: a subdued stage framed by the new CD logo, an ebony lacquered runway framed by neon tubes, and program notes encased in high gloss minimalist envelopes.

Galliano, himself, made only the briefest of appearances, dressed in a two button immaculate black suit.

As he coyly smiled and posed on the runway, two loan security guards trailed the few steps he made.

When John Galliano staged his famous Versailles show in the 90s, he literally took the old house apart.

But today, well into a new century, he came full circle in putting it back together again.

Ironically, as Hedi Slimane showed his most opulent collection on the men's side this season, Galliano has shown his most understated.

The two halves of the house are separated less by a gigantic fissure, then a small pleat, with the two borders closer than you might think.

But today belonged to John Galliano, and his fast moving collection went the gamut from glazed red plastic tops to fur coats tinted mint green and palest lavender.

Black rubber dresses, a red python skirt, and slacks erotically emblazoned with the number "69" rounded out the assortment.

Floating satin was printed with Chinese calligraphy, while absinthe-tinged gossamer mesh was wrapped around the waist with cocoa leather.

One red top was fixed with a molding collar that unrolled to cover the model's mouth and the back half of her head.

From micro-short skirts to super sexy leather slacks, the look was destined to heat even the coldest of winter days.

High stilettos were laced with leather strips to create a marvelous effect, one that was, unfortunately, more aesthetic than practical.

Two models fell painfully, though struggled to regain both their feet and their composure.

Before the show, Bernard Arnault, and his wife Hélène mingled with Sidney Toledano, President of Dior, all smiling for the cameras. And they had good reason.

Dior Couture has just announced a turnover up 41% to 492 million Euros despite a sluggish world economy: this at a time when other competitors, such as the Gucci Group, are recording record losses.

The stars came out as expected today, and so did the world's most snarkly journalists, that proud lot that has for years brandished much of Galliano's work as "un-wearable".

But given the impressive balance sheet at Dior, their cumulative intuition has been disproved repeatedly.

Would that many of their own publications could see such soaring sales figures.

In the end, Didier Grumbach, president of the Fédération Française de la Couture summed it up best.

"The show went very well, and it certainly was a strong collection. What's more, it started promptly this time!"

It was a good day for both Dior Couture and John Galliano, and it will be fascinating to watch the evolution of this star of LVMH.

Dior by John Galliano

Dior by John Galliano

Dior by John Galliano

Dior by John Galliano

Dior by John Galliano

Dior by John Galliano

Dior by John Galliano