Christian Dior à la Americana
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber & Jennifer Graylock-FWD
Click on image to see bigger photo.
Paris, Oct 9, 2001/ FWD/ --- John Galliano’s recent collections for Christian Dior have
been obsessed with United States icons, but the collection he showed Tuesday in Paris was
simply bursting with zany references to them.
Ten gallon hats, basket ball tops, highway signs, sporting bandanas and even an Elvis Presley
suit made it into the Dior Spring/Summer collection, which had enough sharp clothes new
accessories to keep the cash registers at Dior healthy.
Since arriving at Dior, Galliano has turned a venerable but jaded label into a hip and
financially happy luxury house. This collection will keep it on its upward course.
Were an American to have shown this collection in New York, especially in the current context,
it would have smacked of jingoism. But in Galliano’s madcap hands, the show reminded us of
the optimism and happy indulgence of the American dream.
Entitled "Street Chic," the collection opened with some tempting negligee looks, but injected
with humor by being paired with tulle tops and riveted boots. Galliano, who spawned last year’s
obsession with camouflage, did not shy away from military looks on Tuesday.
A platoon of sensational hats by John’s favorite hatter, Stephen Jones, were made of mosquito
nets swirling around exaggerated cartridge belts.
With "Viva Las Vegas" blasting from the speakers, Galliano earned a burst of applause for an
Elvis suit bearing a giant sequined Memphis sign on one shoulder and a Highway 66 one on the
other.
Under Galliano, Dior has branched into swimwear in a major way, and today’s show contained
some bikinis in Mexican prints and a patchwork print of what looked like holiday postcards.
Worn under oversized python trench coats, these little numbers had the local French clients’
noses twitching. Indeed, the leathers were formidably well-crafted throughout, especially the
woven leather bombers and snakeskin jackets.
Pat McGrath made up the models like angry China dolls with white faces and black lipstick,
which looked agreeably bizarre when eight of them donned Texas Ranger hats spouting various
plumages.
However, though a positive pasticcio of Americana, this collection might upset a few people.
With the dust still settling in New York and Kabul, it seemed an oddly incongruous gesture to
send out women in sarouals and Bedouin headgear while mixing Moorish music into the Dobbie
Brothers’ "Without Love."
Christian Dior by John Galliano
Christian Dior by John Galliano
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Christian Dior by John Galliano
Christian Dior by John Galliano
Christian Dior by John Galliano
Christian Dior by John Galliano
Christian Dior by John Galliano
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