PARIS, Oct 4, 2002/ FWD/ --- Seating that turned into yellow flashing lightboxes and hyperactive catwalk lighting.

Welcome to Ibiza, Dior-style.

Next season the Dior woman will be living the hedonistic lifestyle native to that sunny isle of all-night partying.

And she won't be wearing much while she's at it.

Despite a front row that included Penelope Cruz, Christina Ricci, Claire Danes, Laura Dern, Rosanna Arquette, this season's omnipresent David Copperfield and -- bizarrely -- Bette Midler, on the runway, Dior designer John Galliano's mind was somewhere else.

Disappointingly, his basic point of reference was his last haute couture collection, and instead of experimentation leading to a shift forward for the label, total looks were lifted in their entirety and made more ready-to-wear - and shorter.

Picking up on the trend for everything miniscule, Galliano sent out khaki green silk army jacket mini dresses that were voluminous on top and belted low on the hips, or morphing into a skirt that hugged the hips.

He continued his big-on-top proportions with huge blouson crocodile jackets over stretch minis and a slouchy tuxedo jacket worn over a brief beaded dress.

Cool were camouflage pants in metallic organza, but less surefire were lots of Princess Leia bathing suits and bikinis in eye-poppingly lurid shades of acid green and florescent pink, with patent belts fastened at the back with a big diamante logo.

Belts and vertiginously high platform shoes aside, the only new accessories were small glitter clutches.

As the 50 models stalked the runway for the finale, beads falling from their wigs, Galliano exploded on the scene amid a shower of gold paillettes that had the audience oohing and aahing.

Dior by John Galliano

Dior by John Galliano