NEW YORK, Feb 16, 2001/ FW/ --- Good news for the politically-inclined woman with a global view: You will still be able to dress well after the nuclear Holocaust.

Donna Karan's energetic fall collection was entitled Bohemian Luxe, though its clientele -- urban loft-dwelling tribe people -- are clearly not tight for a buck.

However, the choice of fabrics -- ravaged lace, patchwork shearlings and crushed gauzy wool -- had more of the feel of survivor chic.

Perhaps it's not such a pity the Pentagon will finally get to build their defense shield.

This sort of post-attack fashion definitely looked enticing.

With LVMH fashion honcho Yves Carcelle sitting front-row, the runway felt more than a little like a first exam under Donna's new owners. Judging from his cheery expression after the show, Carcelle, who oversees all of LVMH's ten fashion brands, will bring a golden report card back across the Atlantic to his boss Bernard Arnault.

Pre-show Donna was far from sanguine.

Half an hour before the first guests were allowed in, the designer was flipping out. "I can't deal with this lighting. Bring it down," she screamed before executing several last-minute changes in accessories.

Karan opened with a score of outfits in black, many of them outstanding. Her one-shoulder, asymmetrical jersey dresses and shearling wraps were sexy and fresh.

Donna broke new ground with complicated cocktail dresses featuring ruched jersey tops that morphed into flared chiffon or leather lace slips.

At times, things got a little bulky.

Donna even managed to make lithe, incandescent beauty Isabeli look chunky in wrapped elk riding pants -- a considerable achievement.

And several twill biker jackets would be better off in a thrift shop than in Donna's latest New York store, scheduled to open next spring.

Her finale of nearly 20 bronze and gold dresses in vicuna that were alternatively stained, molded and waxed, summed up Donna's achievement of balancing the new with the post-apocalyptic -- perhaps prompted by her stock's slow meltdown.

Donna Karan

Donna Karan

Donna Karan

Donna Karan