NEW YORK, Feb 25, 2003/ FWD/ --- It felt like a large broom had swept through the house of Donna Karan at its ready-to-wear catwalk show in New York Friday.

With the house’s new patron, French billionaire and LVMH president Bernard Arnault, sitting front row, the collection marked a significant return to luxury American sportswear, and away from the arty New Age mood that had dominated the house for a few seasons.

That was clear from the sophisticated setting of low white banquettes with French round backrests and a visual striking neon, in the form of a huge box (merci, production genius Alex de Betak) that hung above the guests in the Chelsea space where the show was staged.

And, we are happy to report, there was a decent dollop of sex in the collection. More subtle than steamy but definitely pointing firmly towards the bedroom. Not to imply there was anything vulgar in this show, which got its inspiration from Karan’s favorite font – urban artists.

Opening phalanxes of stretch cashmere dresses, tight body shirts and leggings all held together with large organic looking pieces of curving silver, the show got off to a powerful start. Donna then segued into a series of very fine goatskin coats, one of which, in white, hung adoringly off the shoulders of model Dewi in an arresting image.

Karan experimented with lots of patent leather which worked brilliantly with six-inch wide ribbed belts that cinched haughtily chic trenches and great slim wool suits, but overly burdened some rayon jersey dresses.

After some 30 outfits in just black and white, Donna took some daring steps working sequins into granite colored tweed suits and onto sandstone suede dresses. If in the latter they looked new and rather ravishing, in the former they seemed plain weird. One could see from the mixed expressions on retailers’ faces that the central part of the collection was definitely hit and miss. Plenty to order, yes, but after a lot of editing.

The same could be said of the finale of several excellent columns pleated and draped with the eye of a master, marred by one very odd transparent dress with bizarre stalagmite and stalactite strips.

“Magnifique!” insisted Arnault as he gracefully edged out of the milling crowd, and for the most part, it was.

Donna Karan

Donna Karan