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DKNY: A Pretty Take on the '80s
Written by: Eri Kim
Taking women back to the '80s for Spring 2002 was DKNY, Donna Karan's lower-priced line,
with everything from mesh tops to parachute skirts. But unlike Madonna in one of her more
regrettable fashion moments, the collection was fresh, feminine and young.
If Karan had her way, women would be wearing skirts, skirts and more skirts next season.
The color scheme was simple: neutrals and black spiced up with red, halogen blue and nude
pink. In tune with the general Heidi-meets-Laura-Ingalls mood of the season, Karan's
frocks were romantic with plenty of ruffles, pleats, lace and, most of all, volume.
While certainly puffy, Karan's parachute skirts escaped the unrealistic with clever
asymmetrical cuts, low waists and light materials. Speaking of waists, many of the skirts
had elastic waistbands - but they appeared like belts because of their width and stitching.
The real belts used Velcro instead of buckles and were put over dresses and skirts as an
accent.
Turning another '80s faux pas into a winning formula were her mesh dresses and tops.
The tops were given a modern flavor with cap sleeves, high collars and a touch of ruching.
The dresses followed the same direction.
Other winners were evening items like a black laundered dress with pink lace trimming and
beige lingerie straps. Black narrow-cut dresses with ruched fronts, some with racer back,
were more grown up. Hems were either cut out or asymmetrical, creating an intriguing effect.
The collection included sportswear-oriented items as well. Customized chino skirts were
tight and had big belt loops and detachable pockets. Pants were wide and baggy with a
folded waist. The jackets, combined with dresses and skirts, were dressier: think a sporty
version of the Edwardian thing.
Finally, for the accessory fetish, DKNY had great little sneakers-turned-spiky-boots,
delicious flats in bright red and sack-like bags in see-through nylon and leather.
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Designer Donna Karan
(Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris-FWD)
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