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Diane Von Furstenberg Spring 2002
New York Fashion Week Spring 2002

Diane Von Furstenberg's Belles du Jour
By Karin Nelson
Photos by Jennifer Graylock
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Diane Von Furstenberg NEW YORK, Sep 10, 2001/ --- Diane Von Furstenberg didn't have to look far for inspiration for her Spring 2002 collection.

"It's clothing for a rebel princess," she explained backstage at her atelier with a mischievous glint in her eye. "It's who I am and any woman who is serious but knows how to have fun, knows how to celebrate her individuality, her freedom, and her confidence."

The models' makeup also took cues from the rebel princess herself. "It's Diane in her ra-ra days - after she's spent the whole night dancing," explained Stila's Jeanine Lobell, as she meticulously made model Amy Wesson's face shiny and bronze with Stila's new "Pivotal Bronzer," a product which launches next spring.

Lips were painted siren red with a color created by Lobell and Von Furstenberg, aptly named DVF: "It's pressed hard and then wiped off, to create the effect of the color having worn away throughout the night."

And it was no different over in hair, where stylist Bob Racine reworked the image of Von Furstenberg from the '70s. "It's her frizzed out silhouette, but with a touch of punk," he explained as he busily corkscrewed the girls' hair and then tousled it to give it a messy edge.

And as the show began, with the girls draped in light-as-air chiffon nonchalantly falling off their shoulders as though they'd danced all night to the delight of every man and woman in the audience - a crowd which included Susan Sarandon and daughter Eva, Diane Sawyer, Natasha Richardson, Tracey Ullman, Katie Couric and Fran Lebowitz - longed for the life of that disco-dancing rebel princess.

In the opening "Belle du Jour" sequence, classic DVF elements emerged with new twists: the wrap dress was layered over skinny pinstriped pants and prints in all their graphic glory were covered up by white satin bomber jackets. Jersey tops were paired with tulle dirndl skirts.

Pragmatic tailored looks like shrunken skirt suits in awning-striped prints were made provocative with sleeves and collars pulled up. Next came a series entitled "Savage Chic," where silk jersey and lace met on tops and dresses that clung to and swaddled the models like second skin. Chiffon boudoir-style wrap dresses were worn over suede jeans.

In "Zen Femme," bonsai prints fluttered on chiffon, and kimono tops were paired with slim pants in pale pink. The "The Ultimate Party" finale came alive with evening looks embellished with ribbon and sequin, including a short jacket tuxedo, evening pants that tied at the ankles, and quite possibly DVF's first Oscar gown -- a red siren dress with braided rope detail that seductively snaked around Bridget Hall's arm.

 

Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg

 

Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg

 

Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg

 

Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg

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