NEW YORK, Sep 18, 2002/ --- There were plenty of fine clothes, elegant accessories, chic looks and beautiful images on Diane von Furstenberg's catwalk in the West Village Tuesday, but as a fashion statement, this collection never quite came together.

No one could fault the cast.

Von Furstenberg assembled a gilt-edged crew for her spring-summer 2003 presentation in the West 12th Street townhouse that doubles as her home, atelier and boutique.

Frederic Fekkai coifed mightily, Christian Louboutin dreamed up wonderful footwear and a certain Ayako for Nars did a fine job with the makeup.

Yet, a little like the supergroups that symbolized the apotheosis of rock music, the resulting creation didn't gel.

Certainly, there was plenty to admire, order and wear on the catwalk, like the slick tattoo print lady's suit on Bridget Hall, in a Marilyn Monroe "Seven Year Itch" mood, and silk jersey corsets with punchy patterns, or leather bombers with pretty rose-patterned appliques.

Best of all were a series of excellent washed-out denim looks; jackets cut tight to the torso with elongated darts, snug palazzo pants and gowns that swept the floor.

Finished with frayed trim and worn with Louboutin's flat shoes with western silver tips, they will all be surefire bestsellers.

Even the designer's perennial wrap dress was given fresh life with novel Topkapi Palace tile designs and inventive cuts.

Yet the collection, as a whole, felt a small step down from von Furstenberg's impressive recent displays.

The collection was billed as "Once upon a Time," but one was unsure just where and when that time was, as the mood was pulled here and there with matinee-idol hairdos, '70s to '90s funk on the soundtrack and looks that referenced a plethora of eras.

"Every life is a story," von Furstenberg wrote in her program notes.

True, but there needn't be too many of them in one show.

Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane Von Furstenberg