MILAN, Mar 6, 2003 /FWD/ --- Giorgio Armani, who will escort Mira Sorvino to the Oscars later this month, readied himself for his trip to the West Coast today, presenting the sexiest -- and shortest -- collection he's designed in many seasons.

A melange of couture technique, beautiful Italian fabrics and the designer's own fertile imagination, this fall/winter collection set its sights firmly on the entrance way to the Academy Awards, and perhaps even more on the week of parties and dinners that precedes it.

Armani picked up where he left off with his Emporio collection shown Friday, with acres of thigh, though this time the show was packed with tights patterned in petals, roses and leaves.

Signaling another major change, Armani, who generally only hires obscure, younger models, sent out top names like Eva Herzigova, Mini Anden and Jacquetta Wheeler. He even got actress Rebecca Romijn Stamos to take the final bow before Kevin Kline, Claudia Cardinale and local soccer great Filippo Inzaghi.

And for a designer who invented non-colors like mud, lichen and cement, it was striking to see a collection that was 90 percent black, white and silver.

"When we were editing the show yesterday, somebody said, 'Giorgio, it all looks very couture,' and I thought, that sounds good, as long as it looks relaxed and contains new elements, Italian details and elements even of men's wear," Armani explained post-show.

Jackets splayed open to show plenty of thigh, cocktail dresses revealed endless bare backs, and fabrics like chenille and lace netting uncovered plenty of flesh.

Giorgio's still the best tailor in Italy, and showed off his sure hand with a series of little black dresses full of puckers, pleats, darts and novel folds that made them all look new.

There was also a Goya-esque mood to the collection, with its devore peasant skirts, elaborate shawls, and torsos and sleeves made of thin leather straps. But Giorgio's Goya gals were headed to the casino or Vanity Fair after-party, rather than a Madrid palace.

Throw in bias-cut organza dresses, sequined black trenches, short jackets with mink and wolf sleeves, and silk faille coats and you got a collection that said sex, sex, parties and more sex.

Giorgio Armani Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani