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Giorgio Hits Home Run as He Debuts New Teatro Armani
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Giuseppe Matteini and Gruber - FWD
Milan, Oct 1, 2001/ FWD/ --- Giorgio Armani delivered a refined, sensual and above all beautiful collection,
celebrating with panache the debut show in his enormous new "theatre" complex in South Milan.
Located in a former Nestle chocolate factory, Teatro Armani must be easily the biggest commercial headquarters
any designer has ever built. Armani selected Tadao Ando to renovate the centerpiece of the 12,000-square-meter
space, and the famed Japanese architect’s trademark blend of sloping, unadorned concrete, raw steel, light and
water looked impressive - and entirely coherent with Armani’s pure, modern style.
The Spring/Summer 2002 collection broke little new ground in fashion terms, but the clothes were almost universally
excellent.
Backed by easy listening cocktail lounge jazz, Giorgio opened with fluid, slightly asymmetrical trousers
in a palette almost exclusively of white and navy. Fastened by drawstrings, the pants, like the soft, knotted tops
and jackets looked chic and comfortable. A foursome of revealing silk dresses in a blotchy paisley was
particularly stunning.
His accessories were refined and fresh: lacquered clutches and bags with Chinese motifs, textile brooches,
posh baseball caps and some delightfully quirky shredded stoles.
But Armani hit his highest note for eveningwear, with wave after wave of elaborately embellished tulle gowns
and a sinfully red finale of semi-transparent gown with lavish designs.
The whole collection was projected on a 10-by-30-feet vertical LED screen, adding to the dreamlike opulent effect.
Giorgio’s new 682-seat theatre boasts armrests, almost unheard of in fashion where six-figure editors and
publishers are not infrequently asked to park their rears on old benches. That said, this critic for one missed
the quieter intimacy of Armani’s old via Borgonuovo headquarters where shows were staged in a basement exhibition
space. Armani plans to keep his design atelier in his old city center palazzo, so commuting is not on the cards.
However, one couldn’t help being impressed by the 100-yard sloping corridor, divided in the middle with totemic
concrete posts, or the courtyard of water seen through a wall of etched glass. Seating in the theatre itself
is movable, allowing Armani to show movies, stage plays or display exhibitions.
At a press conference Sunday, Armani was mum about the cost of the project. "Let’s say it cost a little more
than we expected," he shrugged. However, the designer will reportedly spend $10 million on the overhaul.
"I was surprised when I got the call from Armani," Ando said. "For me it’s a great honor. Armani’s work is not
just fashion, it’s about people’s lifestyles. Fashion is an art form that expresses our twentieth century."
Armani first met Ando in February 2000, and the architect quickly sent back his plans within an impressive two weeks.
"I don’t think this place is pretentious. I’m very proud," said the fashion emperor.
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