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Emporio Armani Spring 2005
Milan Womenswear Show Spring 2005

Emporio Armani: Looking East at India & Company
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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Emporio Armani MILAN, Sep 28, 2004/ FW/ --- Giorgio Armani once again looked east this season, this time the Indian subcontinent filling the runway with whites and khakis, interposed with midnight blue, slate gray and black.

Focusing on the 19th century India, the design maestro retrofitted the sahib’s jodhpurs, English riding jackets, the Mahratta Light Infantry uniform riding spats into a contemporary Emporio Armani collection that will surely be a hit among both the downtown and uptown sets.

And just like in India wherein the sari is made up of several layers of clothing, Armani also opted for layering, sending short-cropped jackets over peek-a-boo blouses, tunics over barely-there shirts and skirts over thin leggings.

One of the most stylish and innovative look is the use of the riding spats, either in leather or cloth, ruche or plain. Used with strappy sandals and stilettos, dressing up during springtime never looked better. For those who love wearing boots whole year round, this is the answer!

The kurpasa bodice, used in ancient India similar as the European ladies wore corsets, was fused with the Indian qaba, a kind of outer vest to become crystals woven into a vest as delicate as a cobweb.

Speaking of cobwebs, one of the most striking looks is a silvery blouse literally woven like a cobweb and worn with royal blue asymmetrical skirt over silk leggings.

And where would we be without the accessories. Giorgio Armani proposed his ladies should be wearing a turban wrapped around a baseball cap, fingerless gloves and toe rings.

"They're colonial clothes but made very informal, mix-and-match style," Armani told reporters after the show.

You betcha! With a collection like this, it will surely be a commercial hit. And now the big question – with Armani expanding in the Far East, is Bombay and Calcutta on the list where he plans to open stores next?

 

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