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Emporio Armani: Glitz or Glitch?
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photo by: Gruber-FWD
Milan, Mar 3, 2001/ FWD/ --- Emporio Armani, the master’s introductory collection for the
well-heeled lady, has always been about easily approachable luxury and this season was no
exception. For fall 2001, Armani proposed a new silhouette made of figure-hugging little jackets
worn with wide pants. These pantsuits were refined and elegant, though probably difficult to
wear for the woman with a few kilos too many.
Giorgio appears obsessed with velvet, and continues to produce some wonderfully subtle leather.
On Saturday, standouts included multi-button woven leather jackets and vests in black and white
stripes that were the epitome of chic. Giorgio also gallivanted with a few frilly leather pieces,
in particular one swirling dress in black leather that had real pizzazz.
Though not everything in leather worked. In particular, Armani’s insistence on dressing a
handful of his models in leather bra tops tied in a big bow didn’t work. Armani cleverly updated
his classic flat shoes – sending out rather mannish pointy-toed loafers and patent leather
slip-ons. And when the weather turns wet, as it has every day this week in Milan, the
Emporio girl can throw on biker boots of rubber neoprene.
Few people cut better than this master, as he showed with two cashmere wrap coats that were
simply impeccable. Things got a little perplexing for evening. The collection ended with a
score of cocktail dresses, mostly in combinations of velvet and sequins. Many of them were
ravishing, but several were rendered less than wearable by the decision to place large fabric
petals – we’re taking 10-inch diameter here – on one shoulder.
The finale was also confusing in that many of these cocktail numbers didn’t seem quite right
for the Emporio customer, and would have seemed more at home in Armani’s own signature collection.
Armani himself didn’t look entirely at ease as he took his bow hand in hand with niece Silvana
before a phalanx of models.
Emporio Armani Fashion
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