Emporio Armani's Global Warmth
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Milan, Oct 1, 2002/ FWD/ --- The nice thing about Giorgio Armani is that no matter where
he gets his inspiration from – and this season it was from Latin America in the midst of
some intense global warming – the collections he puts on the runway still look identifiably
his.
Such was the case Saturday afternoon when the fashion hoard descended to his south
Milan headquarters on via Borgognone for the presentation of the Emporio Armani
spring/summer 2003 collection.
Demand for seats at any Giorgio collection is such that the house now always stages two
shows for each line, splitting up the glamorous and the gabby.
Fittingly, given the Latino theme, Brazilian TV star Daniela Escobar and Kris and Chris,
two Amazonian blonde hosts of MTV Italy, attended the opening show.
"Sex and the City" man-eater Kim Cattrall, Kate Bosworth of "The Horse Whisperer" fame
and the new face of Emporio, Milla Jovovich, enjoyed the second showing.
Last season, Armani caused some amusement among stuffier critics with his baggy Afghan
trousers then had the last laugh when the look did rather well.
This season, he was even more adventuresome with pants – cutting them hyper wide and
way above the ankle, finishing them just below the knee with drawstrings, pulling up
one side with racing straps and manufacturing them in parachute fabrics.
They didn’t all work, but the majority did, especially when paired with some delightfully
snug jackets that screamed the label Emporio.
Armani remains an extremely good tailor, as exemplified by his slim-cut jackets in battered
leather, crinkled cotton or faded seersucker.
They were that bit new and very much wearable.
And as a colorist, Giorgio is always a sure hand – with coolly sexy black calico
handkerchief skirts paired with powder blue bombers a prime example.
However, the designer’s big idea this season -- detachable pocket purses -- proved a
little trickier.
Made in leather and worn with micro seersucker pants and a woven Mexican belt it worked;
paired with some fairly redundant swimwear it tanked.
Nor did the red and orange tops for evening composed of multiple sequins and pailettes
show Armani at his best.
These small lamentations aside, the show will please plenty of consumers and remind
everyone that while lots of designers seem to be searching for themselves each season,
Armani, no matter where his latest vacation or mood, always goes where is best – Armani.
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